tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-649090694274496782024-02-07T21:25:46.296-05:00Life is Short and the World is WideSadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-1163429801762672502011-12-01T20:04:00.008-05:002012-01-03T12:08:26.625-05:00Visas in Vientiane<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fellow adventurer.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With a solid suntan on our bodies and the Family Guy theme song ringing in our ears we head off for the capital of Laos, Vientiane. Originally we had planned on skipping Vientiane all together; the travel guides don't make too much of it and we hadn't heard anything amazing from other travelers. But since it would be the easiest place to get our Vietnam visas taken care of (which you have to get in advance of crossing the border) we tacked it on to our itinerary. Another couple days in Laos? Could be worse.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">We had hoped to make more of an adventure of it--some companies in Vang Vieng offer a kayaking trip to Vientiane--but unfortunately the river was running too strong and the trip was cancelled. So we hopped another minivan for the 4 hour journey. When we arrive it takes a little while to secure a reasonable guesthouse. The cheap ones downtown seem to be sold-out, and the slightly more expensive ones don't seem to be worth it. We get tired of lugging our bags around and settle on one that's about 90,000 kip (about $11.25) which is way more than we'd usually spend. But we shrug it off, drop our stuff and head off on foot for the Vietnamese embassy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Vientiane" target="_blank">Vientiane</a> sits on the Mekong River, about 18km from the First Friendship Bridge that established an easy place to cross into Thailand. As the biggest city in Laos, it's also the economic center of the country. But it doesn't show it's size: the traffic is mild by SE Asian standards and the air is breathable.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Typically, we find ourselves hiking the city streets in the midday sun, but we catch our first glimpse of the Arc de Triomphe-style Patuxai (Victory Gate) and arrive at the embassy thankful for their blasting AC and free water. After a little paperwork we fork over $40 a piece (they only accept US cash) and are told to return in 2 days to pick up our visas.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Back out in the heat we slowly make our way back to the guesthouse, strolling through the park surrounding the Victory Gate and just generally soaking up the city's atmosphere. Another sign of the French colonial influence--all the street signs are posted in Lao <i>and</i> French. It's actually kind of refreshing after 6 weeks and nothing but indecipherable characters.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">That evening we hit up a rooftop bar along the river for one of the most beautiful sunsets of the trip so far. I nearly drop my iPhone four stories down off the ledge while snapping a picture, but Sadrah miraculously saves it. After that scare we stroll the market below in the waning twilight, find a place for dinner and head back to the guesthouse for the night. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">We spend the next morning trekking out to the <a href="http://www.copelaos.org/" target="_blank">COPE</a> Visitors Center. COPE is a non-profit organization that works to provide access to prosthesis, wheelchairs and physical/occupational therapy for those who cannot afford it. While the scope of their work is not limited to people who are injured by UXO's (unexploded ordinance) it is a clearly a big part of what they do.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Before entering the museum we're greeted by a wonderful young man who calls himself Small Kim. He is receiving care at the center and has been given the job of greeting guests to the museum. He's blind and has lost both his hands, but the strength of his spirit is immeasurable. We talk with him for a good 10 minutes, in awe of his eager questions. How do we like Laos? Have we been to California? How many people live in California? He has a friend in Colorado. How big is Colorado? Do we know Michael Jackson? He tells us all about the English parents who have (we think) adopted him--he named himself after his adoptive mother, who he calls Big Kim. His smile and energy are just amazing.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">COPE Center</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Inside we have our first real look at the horrors our government wrought on the Lao people during the Vietnam War. The US dropped what are called cluster bombs: massive 600lb. bombs filled with little "bombies" all over the Lao countryside. In mid-air the cluster bomb opens and the bombies are dispersed. Each bombie, about the size of a tennis ball, is designed to explode on impact sending shrapnel (often tiny ball bearings) in every direction. Unfortunately, many didn't explode on impact. They estimate that of the 260 million bombies dropped in Lao PDR during the war, 80 million did not explode. These UXO's are still injuring around 300 people a year in Laos--farmers can't clear their land, roads can't be built, children can't play in their yards. It's devastating and sad, and as Americans we can't help but feel a little guilty.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bombie art.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">No one should use these things again, ever. Go <a href="http://www.stopclustermunitions.org/" target="_blank">here</a> to learn more about the campaign to ban the use of cluster bombs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">After the museum we're</span><span style="font-size: small;"> content to skip out on any more sight-seeing, so we while away the afternoon at a community pool. Lots of chlorine, lots of kids, lots of sun. So we catch up on our books, soak up some rays, take a dip and repeat. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swimmin' hole.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">That night we dine at Makphet, a training restaurant run by a charity called <a href="http://www.friends-international.org/" target="_blank">Friends International.</a> All the staff are former street kids who will hopefully use the training they receive in the restaurant to go on to careers in the hospitality industry. It's an interesting, alternative way to give back--offer conscious travelers great food and a chance to support an organization that's making a difference you can see up close. Even though we unknowingly show up right before closing time, the staff is polite and our food is delicious--probably the best meal we've had in Laos so far.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">The rest of our stay in Vientiane is marked by postcard mailing and unmistakable smells of freshly-baked bread. I couldn't resist, and clearly I'm quite happy about it. There is not alot of good bread in Thailand.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">We've also become completely sick and tired of the gigantic <i>Lonely Planet's Southeast Asia on a Shoestring</i> that we have the wrestle out of my bag every time we need to check an address or scan a map. So, we pick up a bootleg copy of a <i>Lonely Planet's</i> (would've bought another brand if we could've found one) <i>Vietnam </i>travel guide for a whole $5. This should do for the next leg of the trip--it's probably a little older than the most recent version, but for 1/5 of the original price it'll do the trick. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Our visas are ready to go by mid-afternoon on our 3rd day in Vientiane, so we decide to save some time and grab an overnight bus to our next destination. I know I'm never going to get a true night's sleep on an overnight bus (unless it's a sleeper) but sometimes it's a good idea when it saves valuable time and the cost of an extra night's stay in a guesthouse.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">We certainly did not get the sleeper bus--not that there was one available to get. We also did not get the AC bus we were promised. But in exchange, we did get the 2AM "dinner" stop bus. Nothing beats a bowl of mystery stew and an energy drink at 2AM right? Well, nothing except a 3:30AM bathroom stop in the middle of nowhere. Men and women alike empty off of the bus in complete darkness, wander 10 or 15 meters in all directions and take care of their business. Arrive groggy, we will... </span></div>
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</span></div>Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-84680799746985824752011-11-29T14:20:00.001-05:002012-01-02T13:35:50.951-05:00In the tubing<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After the early-morning collection of alms by the monks in Luang Prabang, we board a minivan for the 5-6+ hour ride to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vang_Vieng">Vang Vieng</a>. The road is bumpy, twisting and mountainous--not exactly ideal for those prone to motion sickness. But at this point in the trip we seem to be getting used to it. Pop in the headphones, relax and enjoy the scenery. In Laos, you quickly learn to go with the flow. There really is no other way.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River bar - note the beach pails.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Once little more than a rural village, Vang Vieng has exploded into a backpacker must-do on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana_Pancake_Trail">Pancake Trail</a> of Southeast Asia. Most of the draw centers around "tubing," which is essentially the act of floating down the beautiful Nam Song river in a gigantic truck tire inner tube. What started as an <a href="http://www.smh.com.au/travel/down-the-tube-20110727-1hzzc.html">innocent way to relax</a> has grown into a Spring Break-like free for all. A few miles up from town the river is lined with simple bars set on flimsy platforms just above the river's rushing water. They pump loud music from around 11AM and sell Beer Lao and buckets by the hundreds to young Western travelers eager for dancing and debauchery. Oh, buckets--an amusing and perhaps unfortunate mainstay of SE Asian travel. </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Take one brightly colored plastic beach pail, fill with your choice of cheap liquor, usually Tiger Whiskey (about $1-2/bottle) and a mixer (often the extreme Thai version of Red Bull, M-150) toss in a handful of drinking straws and there you have it: a kitschy recipe for disaster. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our little minivan arrives in town that afternoon. We're immediately greeted by an English-speaking, Western "tout" trying to get us to stay in some guesthouse he's been living in "for the last 2 months." Now that's a first! Thanks, but no thanks. So, after securing another guesthouse we walk the streets for a few hours, soaking up the vibe of the town. Street-side sandwiches are cheap, "In the Tubing" t-shirts and dry bags are plentiful and kids are drunk or high, barefoot or bandaged--often all of the above. The streets are also lined with "TV bars" where bleary-eyed travelers plop down behind low tables, prop themselves up on pillows, and stare blankly at endless reruns of Family Guy and Friends. It's an odd place.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Less beer, more scenery.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning we get started around 11AM, which is relatively late for us. After a quick bite we hit up tubing central, where several surrounding villages have formed a cooperative business renting tubes to travelers. Sign up, pay up, grab a life vest (which most people don't) and go. It's surprisingly organized for Laos, but I can't really blame them for getting on top of things and making the most of all the tourists dollars that are flowing in. So we rent our tubes and head off in a songthaew with a handful of other travelers. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJvXPbi8GiWGO1w8FmSNtOCc35Z7gmmNJjBoZzDPdLLVFm4ihwg3H4MXcVbPsPc80dgl5q2aP-1WkAxA_Xh0OVU_X7KT9E6zXvoAcdgjfda40mmjArD70Tsd2MSlB9iy_NqpIftDUPf6k/s1600/grrr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJvXPbi8GiWGO1w8FmSNtOCc35Z7gmmNJjBoZzDPdLLVFm4ihwg3H4MXcVbPsPc80dgl5q2aP-1WkAxA_Xh0OVU_X7KT9E6zXvoAcdgjfda40mmjArD70Tsd2MSlB9iy_NqpIftDUPf6k/s320/grrr.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> Soon we find ourselves a few miles upriver, ready for some tubing action. Much to our surprise we seem to be the first group on the river, but that turns out to be a blessing in disguise. We have a few beers, try out a gigantic, two-story slide and surf on the back of old doors--all without the crowds or much fear of injury. The scariest thing is the speed of the current in the rainy season, so we make sure it keep our wits about us whenever we dip into the river again.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After clearing the glut of bars at the beginning of the trip, we drift relaxingly, soaking up the sun and the scenery with big smiles on our faces. The beautiful karst cliffs rise up to our right, towering over us as the sun shines brightly overhead. It's no wonder adventure sports like rock climbing are also becoming popular in this area.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLUtWZi3KnM-2nDoP6v3T0UnjZYWZG-EVV1tnlLNijSr5WJIf_5F_3nBqHkE7hV_osJmjRsSTpAA3UDNEFy3l6puyg-jqMpn51lSk7z2dVAgeWwHQX7Twy4r8H3L47Y16P1jmcxneHsA/s1600/sadrah_tube.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLUtWZi3KnM-2nDoP6v3T0UnjZYWZG-EVV1tnlLNijSr5WJIf_5F_3nBqHkE7hV_osJmjRsSTpAA3UDNEFy3l6puyg-jqMpn51lSk7z2dVAgeWwHQX7Twy4r8H3L47Y16P1jmcxneHsA/s320/sadrah_tube.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Luckily we started early enough to squeeze in a 2nd trip down the river after lunch. By this time the whole scene has morphed into a full-on party extravaganza. Dance parties are erupting, kids are playing soccer in the mud and spray painting one another with raunchy slogans. People are headed down the slide 2-3 at a time, not giving the bar employees enough time to reel them in with life preserver or ropes with plastic bottles tied to the end. Remember the current I mentioned? In only a few minutes we see several people quickly drift 100 ft. or so down the river, sans tube. Once drifting they're left to ride the current to the next bar or grab some branches and pull themselves out of the river. It's easy to see how people get hurt or even <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-14918533" target="_blank">killed</a> which sadly happens every year.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Get some!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We hang out for a while, just to observe the insanity. Then, after another leisurely trip down the river we drop off our tubes and head back to the room, sun-baked and ready for a nap.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So, is Vang Vieng far from that "real" Lao experience that some travelers are craving? Absolutely. But as a glaring example of this countries struggle to grow and define it's tourism industry, it's definitely worth seeing firsthand. And we certainly can't deny the natural beauty this part of country has to offer. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tomorrow morning we head for the capital city of Vientiane to get our Vietnam visas all squared away. </span>
</span></span>Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-74590455020395205152011-09-04T10:29:00.000-04:002011-09-04T10:29:17.260-04:00All The Young Monx<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Like a French provincial town transplanted to tropical paradise, Luang</span><span style="font-size: small;"> Prabang sits nestled between the Mekong and Nam Kam rivers in north-central Laos, about 475km. north of the capital Vientiane. </span><span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">After walking the jungle and tasting rural and small town life in northern Laos, we step into the "big" city (all of about 100,000 people) to find all the comforts of home--or at least those of Thailand. Modern coffee shops, bakeries, diverse cuisine...and unsurprisingly a bevy of Western tourists. Fortunately they haven't quite yet ruined the charm of Luang Prabang.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Luang Prabang's status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site has helped to preserve the crumbling, French-influenced architecture that lines the city's streets. </span><span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It also allows the local government to ban trucks and buses from barreling down the main streets, a welcome break for any traveler using their feet as a main means of transport. The city is teeming with young monks walking in small groups to and from the many temples and monasteries, tucked under matching orange umbrellas and smiling gently as we cross paths. </span><span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We find it all fairly charming, the slow pace and friendly people adding to the relaxing atmosphere.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDpkdvo3_p1bTdbHlZ2s5OvbaG1RpxoNPQ-PBGZizDgq3p7Y4dgo8qxPPcbJue8IFZwFAuncJYMR3ji_97c8QZ_ZLgIWw0KeGY5nFo3HqBFqEjJ4WeR2uWke9U0K8H9sgOx55jBfJjVo/s1600/P1000917.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDpkdvo3_p1bTdbHlZ2s5OvbaG1RpxoNPQ-PBGZizDgq3p7Y4dgo8qxPPcbJue8IFZwFAuncJYMR3ji_97c8QZ_ZLgIWw0KeGY5nFo3HqBFqEjJ4WeR2uWke9U0K8H9sgOx55jBfJjVo/s320/P1000917.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Monk laundry.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Every night the main street shuts off traffic and fills with a market brimming with souvenirs. It's a great place for a slow wander and a snack. We manage to find the vegetarian food stalls on a side street off the market, where for 10-12,000kip (about $1.50) you can load your plate with an assortment of veg and tofu goodies. The quality is nothing stellar, but its good for a quick, cheap meal. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The Lao have this great saying: "Same, same...but different!" and it perfectly encapsulates many of the goodies on offer at this market. Little old ladies, many from nearby tribes, one after another, selling the same t-shirts, trinkets and sarongs as the next one down the line. But we still manage to find a few gems--some little bottles of locally made Lao Lao whiskey for me and a cute dress for Sadrah that she negoitated down to a fair price.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">It rains quite a bit over our first few days in town, so we take it easy--get some laundry done, chill out over coffees and pastries, poke into shops and visit a few temples between the raindrops. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Making paper.</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Weaving.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">When the weather finally breaks we rent bicycles and venture out of the city into some of the smaller villages where women weave silk garments for the night market stalls on giant looms. An older woman is kind enough to let us into her home for a few moments to observe the lengthy, tedious process. She and her friends speak no English, but the kindness in their smiles is more than enough communication. Later we stumble upon a collection of shops selling handmade paper products. We stop for a minute to watch a women making paper by hand. </span><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">We also enjoyed some great meals in Luang Prabang. Twice we were stuffed to the gills with Lao barbeque, a do-it-yourself tabletop feast. <span class="ecxApple-style-span">The waiter removes a tile from the center of our table and places a stone bucket of hot coals in its place. On top he sets a metal dish. In the raised center we grill slices of tofu while around the edges we pour a soup broth and fill it with tons of fresh vegetables and noodles to cook. We add garlic and chilies to the broth, and coat the tofu slices in a tangy barbecue sauce. In the end it's more than enough food for at least 3 people, probably more. At 50-60,000 kip for a massive meal, it's a great value.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lao barbecue.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">We had another dinner at a great restaurant called <a href="http://www.tamarindlaos.com/">Tamarind</a> (which offers training and education in hospitality and restaurants for street children) where we were able to sample some of the traditional local specialties. It can be tough to eat like a local in these parts when sticking to a vegetarian diet, but the sampler platter and meuyang (a wrap-your-own mix of noodles, herbs, pastes & vegetables) turned us on to some great flavor combinations. It was definitely a "classy" night out for our budget, but it's worth the splurge every once in a while to try out some really tasty food and support a good cause!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">On our last day we organize a ride to Kuang Su Waterfall about 30km. outside of the city. We take a few hours to explore the crashing falls at the top and several pools that form below that are great for swimming. We even try out the rope swing.<br />
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Every morning just before sunrise, in every village and town in Laos, monks leave their temples to collect alms from the local people. With the number of temples concentrated in this small city, the sheer volume of monks is quite striking. Hundreds of monks fill the streets, each carrying a basket which the local people along the street fill with a handful of sticky rice each<span class="ecxApple-style-span">. Although it seems a bit like charity, they give alms as a way of gaining merit in their faith. "It is<span class="ecxApple-style-span" style="line-height: 21px;"> closer to a symbolic connection to the spiritual and to show humbleness and respect in the presence of normal society.<span class="ecxApple-style-span"><span class="ecxApple-style-span"> </span></span>The visible presence of monks and nuns is a stabilizing influence. The act of alms giving assists in connecting the human to the monk or nun and what he/she represents." I stole that from Wikipedia, but it was the easiest way to describe the ritual.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiCFemMmybHj7sjL7ydz4f24cyBgY749EXbAJGsrxhNevfvjW9XvXzkVxCwCxR8WMkjsTUrdEpoEJIYAjBxoaKSML9FK9MqNL94KlVNefTuGKXMEdsAr54ZclMS8Xhvf_jV59it2K_I4/s1600/P1010085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiCFemMmybHj7sjL7ydz4f24cyBgY749EXbAJGsrxhNevfvjW9XvXzkVxCwCxR8WMkjsTUrdEpoEJIYAjBxoaKSML9FK9MqNL94KlVNefTuGKXMEdsAr54ZclMS8Xhvf_jV59it2K_I4/s400/P1010085.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Unfortunately the photo-op has become quite a tourist
draw, as the streets teem with barefoot monks in dark orange robes
walking in silent procession in the light of daybreak. Thankfully, the
government has gone to great lengths to make sure that tourists are
observing the ritual respectfully. <span class="ecxApple-style-span">On
our last morning in town we rise in complete darkness and head for the
main road near our guest house. We make sure to keep our distance,
observing as men and women emerge from their homes with big baskets of
sticky rice and kneel on mats along the sidewalk. Soon rows of monks
appear out of the darkness, seeming to come from all directions. They
collect their daily alms in a barefoot procession silent but for the soft padding of hundreds of feet, and the whole
ritual is over in a little over 20 minutes. </span></span><br />
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Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-78291378038995493062011-08-21T11:32:00.001-04:002011-08-21T11:33:51.001-04:00Slow ride, take it easy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghF8mK-a3FUzkyvDmBpfs7G970u8CtB1IHSa5iQ-_unFPrfxgHGYgW_bbsk7ARanDvAz4UAwUan9YHjIXVaw445-5diN_JeC4jc-dtkd5i7yHz8NQLN4K2gTpExlDfsqgdj7NjWpxpbo0/s1600/P1000908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghF8mK-a3FUzkyvDmBpfs7G970u8CtB1IHSa5iQ-_unFPrfxgHGYgW_bbsk7ARanDvAz4UAwUan9YHjIXVaw445-5diN_JeC4jc-dtkd5i7yHz8NQLN4K2gTpExlDfsqgdj7NjWpxpbo0/s320/P1000908.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>There are several ways to make the long journey south from the more remote regions in the north to the cities of Laung Prabang and Vientiene in central Laos. Trapped on a bus, fearing for your life on a speed boat...hitchhiking perhaps? Take your pick. But one of the most popular modes of a transport is a "slow boat" ride down the Mekong River. Two lazy days drifting down the river sounded pretty good to us, and although we'd heard mixed reviews on the experience, but we decided to give it a go anyway.<br />
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Day one starts in Huay Xai with an early breakfast and transport to the boat launch at the north end of town. We hop aboard one of many large longtail boat along the shoreline and settle into a couple repurposed bus seats (always the inventive recyclers!) near the front of the boat as our packs are stored below deck. In typical Lao fashion we hang around for another hour so, periodically loading new passengers until all the seats are full.<br />
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The boat is pretty simple but functional: four seats wide, with two on each side of a reasonable isle down the middle. At the front of the boat there's a small enclosure for the captain and at the back a small "shop" for snacks and a clean enough bathroom.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo hijack.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We'd heard rumors of a party boat-ish atmosphere, and although the boat is filled with mostly twenty-something backpackers, they're hardly rowdy. A few beers are downed here and there by some, but generally the ride turns out to be a peaceful, relaxing affair. The scenery is gorgeous and the fresh, exhaustless air is more than welcome in our lungs. It's also nice to be able to get up and stretch your legs or use the bathroom whenever you feel like it, unlike a typical bus ride.<br />
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(Later, in Luang Prabang we cross paths with the four girls from Norway who were with us on The Gibbon Experience. They decided to take the bus from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, which turned out to be a joyous, 17+ hour journey. Their trip included: two flat tires, getting out to help push the bus and late night mosquito attacks. Not to mention the hour the driver spent teaching his protege how to park the bus on the side of the road. Needless to say, we're certainly glad we opted for the boat.)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">riverside 7-11</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The two day trip is broken up with a night spent in the small riverside town of Pak Beng. Essentially a small, rural village, any tourist industry here has sprung up solely around the daily deposit of slow boat passengers and their basic needs. You know, the basics: snacks, western breakfasts, drinks, drugs...maybe even a place to sleep for a few hours. Before our bags are even off the boat we're assaulted by all manner of salesmen touting their guesthouses, and more importantly their ability to procure you marijuana. We manage to slip away and wander along the main road until we find a tolerable room for the night. It was a bit dingy, but at least it was only 40,000 kip (8000 kip = $1) for the night.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVU9y2N81OGNbUhQXcgqGbXnO2oXPbLWe5fHPqqpUcUJkp6Rb5IFZ-B-yYzrHIwMCfkEeTulkJl4x2rsPIgvql1i_VP9s6DoxXwmLhcG4wijyNaqJRoqxrH4IGjk03NvvglQMPtir9UE/s1600/P1000879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVU9y2N81OGNbUhQXcgqGbXnO2oXPbLWe5fHPqqpUcUJkp6Rb5IFZ-B-yYzrHIwMCfkEeTulkJl4x2rsPIgvql1i_VP9s6DoxXwmLhcG4wijyNaqJRoqxrH4IGjk03NvvglQMPtir9UE/s320/P1000879.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views from the boat.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>With our new friend Fran, a sweet middle-aged teacher from France who took the room next to ours, we wander the streets for an hour or so, chatting and exploring past the guesthouses to catch a glimpse of real life in this riverside village. Most of the homes in Laos have a very wide, open floor plan, so it's often possible to sneak a peek at the going's on around the home. Sometimes the little moments you glimpse in this way are the most interesting of the day. After our walk we grab a nice dinner with Fran at an Indian restaurant and then head for bed. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did I mention our boat was also a submarine?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>In the morning it's breakfast and back on the boat by 9AM. The 2nd day's boat is a bit smaller and considerably more cramped. Especially for the hungover late-comers to the pier who are forced to sit in the very back of the boat, nearly on top of the roaring engine. For us it's just fine--we grab two seats up front, and aside from a bit of rain the trip feels rather short and sweet. We arrive in Luang Prabang around 4PM with no place to stay. Bags strapped to our backs, giant, attention-grabbing travel guidebook in hand, and sun blaring down on us we set out to find a place to lay our heads. You know, just another typical day...Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-44587957124032939612011-08-10T04:32:00.000-04:002011-08-10T04:32:16.969-04:00We go zip!After an extra day in rainy, gray Huay Xai to recharge our batteries and update the blog--which is, incidentally, several weeks behind--we head out with a small group on The Gibbon Experience. As part of a conservation project in Bokeo National Reserve in northwest Laos, The Gibbon Experience bills itself as a great example of responsible ecotourism. The guides are all from local villages in or around the reserve, and A good portion of the income generated by our trip goes toward reforestation projects (many of the local farmers still practice slash and burn agriculture which is terribly inefficient and leads to erosion) and protecting the forest wildlife from poachers. The namesake of our adventure is a monkey that lives mostly in the forest canopy, swinging great distances from tree to tree in search of a life-long mate.<br />
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In keeping with the gibbon's airborne, treetop existence, we spend the bulk of our two days riding zip lines high above the forest canopy and trekking through dense jungle. It's both breath-taking and exhausting, with some zip lines crossing 6-700 meters from one high point on the ridge to another.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All geared up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zipping to the tree house.</td></tr>
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In the mid-afternoon of the first day we reach our accommodation for the night--a three-story tree house built 200ft. up around a massive old tree. The tree house is beautiful, comfortably sleeps eight people with soft mattresses, warm blankets and mosquito nets. It even has running water and electricity<span class="st">! Here, perched above the forest canopy, we have an amazing view of the surrounding landscapes. The bathroom is perhaps the most amazing part of the whole place, with an open 180</span><span class="st">°</span><span class="st">+ view of the jungle. It's probably the most beautiful shower I have ever taken.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I spotted a gibbon.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our tree house suite</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsQJROJ5VaKKRpOdzM-7V7NQgE_PdcqZr9-WYvM0GlSgndLSF1O2C3c9itL728e1k50k6ecuY_jHxPYnBOsllf3DNgq1B2RFAyK-UFqQveTh_euanoX5414PdIdwIs9hW98yADkX_gDE/s1600/P1000859.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsQJROJ5VaKKRpOdzM-7V7NQgE_PdcqZr9-WYvM0GlSgndLSF1O2C3c9itL728e1k50k6ecuY_jHxPYnBOsllf3DNgq1B2RFAyK-UFqQveTh_euanoX5414PdIdwIs9hW98yADkX_gDE/s320/P1000859.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOH74SmZdoStCwNkqKIYHomMifsjICByWpbY9wYZXyu-f-w0Lw0TtsOF02_cp6ZbrVRuOgq6Op4vtqAX9KgFp9zozfpkqoHXAKsAlpJ0UfojCiDKjvx0Ej9m7MxwM0XTGiCOf7hdRJj8/s1600/P1000840.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOH74SmZdoStCwNkqKIYHomMifsjICByWpbY9wYZXyu-f-w0Lw0TtsOF02_cp6ZbrVRuOgq6Op4vtqAX9KgFp9zozfpkqoHXAKsAlpJ0UfojCiDKjvx0Ej9m7MxwM0XTGiCOf7hdRJj8/s320/P1000840.JPG" width="320" /></a><span class="st">After a strenuous morning and afternoon we spend the remainder of the day snacking, relaxing and getting to know our group. Our guides zip a hearty dinner over from a kitchen somewhere on solid ground just as a torrential rainstorm rolls in. For a few moments the winds howl, the rain spits and the tree house sways...but thankfully it's all over rather quickly. After the storm subsides we share a glass of Lao wine with our guides as the darkness settles in</span><span class="st"> and the sounds of the jungle grow in volume and variety. It was especially fun getting to know our young, energetic guide and teaching him the proper way to use a double-hinged cork screw. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorilla in the mist.</td></tr>
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<span class="st">We rise just before 6AM for a morning of zipping around the jungle. We return to the treehouse briefly to collect our things, down a hearty breakfast and begin our trek back Huay Xai. After five hours of trekking, zipping and considerable sweating--with a quick lunch thrown in at the hut of a forest guard--we pick up our transport for a bumpy ride out of the jungle. It's tough to imagine how they ever manage these roads deeper in the wet season. Only in the last hour or so of the trip did the leeches finally show their blood-sucking little faces, but thankfully for us we escaped unscathed. However I can't say the same for some others in our group. Perhaps it was the Deet in our bug spray</span><span class="st">? We heard somewhere that is was good for deterring leeches.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sticky rice goes with everything.</td></tr>
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<span class="st">We return to Huay Xai thoroughly exhausted but completely satisfied with our trip. We check into a guesthouse for one more night and book tickets on the slow boat to Luang Prabang for the morning. A relaxing ride down the mighty Mekong is just what the doctor ordered... </span><br />
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Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-82238475596877246672011-08-10T03:09:00.000-04:002011-08-10T03:09:38.586-04:00Pai in the skyFrom Pun Pun we headed northwest to the hippy/expat enclave of Pai, a small town nestled into the northern mountains. Arriving in the off-season we found Pai to be very quiet and relaxing, but we were assured that a Khao San Rd-like atmosphere explodes in the high season. Lucky for us we missed that. We took it easy for a few days in, enjoying complimentary coffee and bananas from our guesthouse in the mornings, exploring some of the sites & attractions later in the day and lounging in cushiony bars with free mojitos at night.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JgFpN1zARPUzCBDN_KInNxQgHk78db1rB3zxSbvTqQjYRiSVEkNlcTVlCY-1HivZbJn0oJpIPImejjjGECk3oGK7g_siHV_1YvITMAEAeEbqocTMuoeNfAB0Ftz0ml80shq2ctlf32U/s1600/P1000664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JgFpN1zARPUzCBDN_KInNxQgHk78db1rB3zxSbvTqQjYRiSVEkNlcTVlCY-1HivZbJn0oJpIPImejjjGECk3oGK7g_siHV_1YvITMAEAeEbqocTMuoeNfAB0Ftz0ml80shq2ctlf32U/s200/P1000664.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thai curry paste</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOLe8AGOwLox045b8tA7kYC9iSDJNdPo8MDsyUe6BXCOBv-MYWpEpdOpgxWSY-6NnGYEPo5ww_SI-CX5BRMMoWN0gi5xHcLj5BsYzZMrOhgeJhyphenhyphenvniIKsOwWWd3v5UhBqeqG7xO09z_Y/s1600/P1000670.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOLe8AGOwLox045b8tA7kYC9iSDJNdPo8MDsyUe6BXCOBv-MYWpEpdOpgxWSY-6NnGYEPo5ww_SI-CX5BRMMoWN0gi5xHcLj5BsYzZMrOhgeJhyphenhyphenvniIKsOwWWd3v5UhBqeqG7xO09z_Y/s320/P1000670.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chef Sadrah</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We took an excellent Thai cooking class from a very friendly, extremely thankful woman @ the Red Orchid and finished the day full of knowledge and even fuller of delicious food. First we visited the local morning market to shop for all our ingredients for the day. We were finally able to put some names to mystery vegetables we'd been spotting along our trip so far. Then we learned to cook five different traditional Thai dishes each, including a lesson on how to make Thai curry paste with mortar and pestle. Needless to say it's quite a workout. Thanks again to the low season we were the only two people in the class, so we got lots of personal attention.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unexpectedly tough ride to the hot springs...on rickety cruiser bikes</td></tr>
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Some other highlights: we rented bikes and took in the scenery on the way to visiting some local hot springs, hit up a in-ground pool/bar, sampled some tasty teas, coffees and pastries, wandered the night market along the main road and checked out open mic-night. Perhaps Pai was a bit touristy all and all, but we enjoyed it.<br />
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After a few days in Pai we rented a motorbike and made the 45km journey over the mountains to Soppong and Tham Lod Cave. It was rainy and cool at the top, but there were spectacular views of the valleys below. Surprisingly the ride wasn't much of a challenge after our last motorbike jaunt. Sadrah's becoming quite the road hog!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhetlo6YmaXvYWdYmtd3ao8TdmISKruyHSJiNp4p0uKyXF6ICm4M1GiBpquxf-7ZQ3U8orCeOrArv51i9Ljn0SSj8SfxUlR1Pq7m9ks4qBiEuOygo3SZSrJUysN-rcCo9kqV6VgmMTqOC4/s1600/P1000727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhetlo6YmaXvYWdYmtd3ao8TdmISKruyHSJiNp4p0uKyXF6ICm4M1GiBpquxf-7ZQ3U8orCeOrArv51i9Ljn0SSj8SfxUlR1Pq7m9ks4qBiEuOygo3SZSrJUysN-rcCo9kqV6VgmMTqOC4/s400/P1000727.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Pai to Soppong</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We arrived a few hours later and took a bungalow at The Cave Lodge. A cozy outpost complete with food, lodging and a multitude of tours to offer. Cave Lodge is built into a hillside overlooking the river that runs through the cave and its front door is just a short jaunt from the entrance to Tham Lod. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-o1qd8hExlQnF7wqMXeTP1ijMRYspO8DJhXHz8f3yw6X4Qh9fru2tTwwJA3OpS4ru0Sn5rFWuCJuVT-FkdHaj7lyXpj4RE9aB-8F_lluTZSn1kiqrjS4xrjajKZo2rqzWiYTnV0oDE7U/s1600/P1000749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-o1qd8hExlQnF7wqMXeTP1ijMRYspO8DJhXHz8f3yw6X4Qh9fru2tTwwJA3OpS4ru0Sn5rFWuCJuVT-FkdHaj7lyXpj4RE9aB-8F_lluTZSn1kiqrjS4xrjajKZo2rqzWiYTnV0oDE7U/s200/P1000749.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>That evening we hiked a short distance to the cave exit for the infamous bird/bat show. Every night hundreds of thousands of swifts fly into the cave to eat and sleep for the night while all the bats fly out of the cave. We witnessed and endless stream of birds circling above the entrance to the cave and then spiraling down and inside for the night. We watched mesmerized for nearly 40 minutes as the steady stream of birds showed no signs of letting up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOdUmX-_nCkP7SoahMBttwDPyzEXa6J-D-WC_NzKxEjabVNAxK2XoWdPO7w1gyfK863h6aGyf1UqyFaJLthhTojqieAFrIId_bPQQ2UJLaUTWVRNOpknFaQ9qBEa_k-9OBPwwS-8RfNo/s1600/IMG_2745%255B1%255D" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOdUmX-_nCkP7SoahMBttwDPyzEXa6J-D-WC_NzKxEjabVNAxK2XoWdPO7w1gyfK863h6aGyf1UqyFaJLthhTojqieAFrIId_bPQQ2UJLaUTWVRNOpknFaQ9qBEa_k-9OBPwwS-8RfNo/s400/IMG_2745%255B1%255D" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BIRDS</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The next day we both started to come down with something and opted for the more basic cave tour run by the forestry office down the road from the Cave Lodge. We rode into the cave on a bamboo raft, our guide lighting the way with a kerosene lantern. We visited several caves off the main river which housed huge and varied rock formations, sink holes and mysterious ancient coffins. Even in our sickly state (heightened by the overwhelming ammonia stench of bird/bat guano), and with our guides very basic English (she could only really point out rock formations that look like animals), it was all quite interesting.<br />
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After the tour we managed the motorbike ride back to Pai and fought through the fever and nausea to board a late night minibus to Chang Khong, a small Thai town along the Mekong River and the border with Laos.<span style="font-family: ".VnArial"; font-size: 14pt;"></span><br />
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After what amounted to a very easy and uneventful border crossing the next morning--except for the guy at the border bragging about his photo with Steven Seagal--we found ourselves in Huay Xai, Laos--a bit weary but excited to explore a new country. But first we found a decent guesthouse and slept most of the day away, hoping to recover quickly from whatever ailed us.Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-8148813986640926352011-08-02T08:31:00.000-04:002011-08-02T08:31:54.967-04:00The Road to Pun PunIt's possible that we could have happily spent more time in Chiang Mai. It's easy to while away an afternoon strolling the streets and checking out the goodies for sale or plopping down at a curbside cafe sipping on fresh coffee and participating in one of my new favorite activities - monk spotting! But it was time to move along. Thai cooking courses are a very popular activity for Farang visiting Thailand and prior to leaving the States, I sought out an <a href="http://www.yousabai.com/">organic farm and vegetarian cooking school</a> located a few hours from Chiang Mai.<br />
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We email them about our visit and are informed that the cooking class isn't being offered in the slow season but we are still welcome to come and visit the farm and volunteer in the kitchen to pick up a few tips and pointers. We decide to give it a go--but first we had to find it.<br />
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The directions on the website read more like steps in a scavenger hunt. 1. Find the Warowot market (we opted to take a sweaty walk there rather than a tuk-tuk) 2. Once at the market find the river, turn left and walk 100 meters. 3. You will see a phone booth and a parking lot, walk past the parking lot and turn left down an alley where you will find a row of white trucks 4. Skip three strides then hop twice and you will have arrived.<br />
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In reality it is far easier than the instructions make it sound and we arrive early enough to peruse the market. This is probably the first true local food market we've seen so far on this trip, full of live eels and turtles waiting to become someone's dinner as well as some unlucky frogs on skewers. It seems everything comes on a skewer in Thailand and I have no complaints about that! We pick up some fresh <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rambutan">rambutan </a>and passion fruit as well as a few fried bananas before we hop on the truck.<br />
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As with most businesses and modes of transport in this part of the world our truck was dual purpose. In addition to carrying us and a few Thai women, our truck also acts as a supply transport making several stops to unload various goods (bicycle and motorbike tires, cases of condensed milk, potted trees) to small villages and homes along the way.<br />
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</div>Our ride ends about two hours later on the side of a dusty road. The driver motions us toward a muddy path that puts our balance to the test. We traverse rice paddies and makeshift bridges and feel pretty good about our successes thus far, but when we arrive at the farm there was no one in sight. We knew that Krit, the man we emailed, would be in Chiang Mai until the next day but were told that other members of the community would be expecting our arrival. We ditch our bags at what looks like the main dining building and go for a walk around the grounds hoping to encounter someone.<br />
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All of the buildings are earthen structures, made of some combination of raw wood, bamboo, mud and clay and are in varying states of upkeep. The paths are a bit overgrown and everything looks slightly neglected. We poke around a bit and having still encountered no one head back to where we stashed our bags. Out pops a head with long hair and a longer beard from the previously unnoticed 2nd floor of the main building. His name is Botash and he is from Hungary. He speaks English well and we ask him some questions about the farm but he seems to have about as much info as well do. We sit with him for a while lounging about and reading a bit, waiting for anyone else to arrive.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIOa8MikF3dkb1ocTpG2CKoDIP-4jZvm7mjHOSHeZvN3gaUlMmB4eZHi0PhxTQ74g1gXKo6G7vEnt5DCLUJLeXGAoB_fj_Qw07EGi41J5Tfan4wDAXHv7a6s92j2kV4c0DKaPJCDlFQ/s1600/P1000626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIOa8MikF3dkb1ocTpG2CKoDIP-4jZvm7mjHOSHeZvN3gaUlMmB4eZHi0PhxTQ74g1gXKo6G7vEnt5DCLUJLeXGAoB_fj_Qw07EGi41J5Tfan4wDAXHv7a6s92j2kV4c0DKaPJCDlFQ/s320/P1000626.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The famous Botash.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBEJeYzRk8_d7tITF62ud7aVQVaE7YuHS5BUdXV-W6d6qA1mKEposi9QVh7v2jEoOmnODR3a_bdkGjST2LQFPjafB3fqsEftzXC2oO0Hg41hx3vDv3w1y0_kxSasvL0X07WEUGXpQug/s1600/foto+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBEJeYzRk8_d7tITF62ud7aVQVaE7YuHS5BUdXV-W6d6qA1mKEposi9QVh7v2jEoOmnODR3a_bdkGjST2LQFPjafB3fqsEftzXC2oO0Hg41hx3vDv3w1y0_kxSasvL0X07WEUGXpQug/s320/foto+002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bamboo fixin'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Eventually some women and a young man come around. No one speaks more than a few words in English. A young kid leads us to a small earthen structure a short walk from the main building but we are given no more instruction. We wander back to the kitchen and find a group of women preparing fresh bamboo shoots. We stand around for a while watching and trying to communicate that we want to help. Eventually we either picked up a shoot or were given a shoot to peel. The process is like this: Young bamboo shoots are picked when they are about 6" long, the tough base is trimmed and then the outer sheaths of the shoot are peeled away until the green part is all stripped and nothing but a long thin white cone remains. We help peel bags of them and then wait for the next step. But there is no next step. Finally we are told to go take showers and return at 6 for dinner. <br />
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It's more like 7:30 when dinner is served. Botash, Mike and I eat and chat while the sun sets and then creep very carefully back to our hut as I'm terrified I'll step on a poisonous snake. Our hut is filled with critters but mostly just lizards and we are more or less become accustomed to them by this point. Despite the confusing day we were still quite content to be under our mosquito net with the jungle sounds lulling us to sleep.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihwAMKILcTpc5YENnMMzSuvC3Ku4taDw1DvAji5ao5NmAljM6-WLWN0dri8jthqm4p3q2u9Am4NrTUCKKRsyA2RzHOQE1tIECyuZtD-Bt8A53BjRRvO0W5QOLF7UEe4DDvpbZwzDqwaA/s1600/P1000622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihwAMKILcTpc5YENnMMzSuvC3Ku4taDw1DvAji5ao5NmAljM6-WLWN0dri8jthqm4p3q2u9Am4NrTUCKKRsyA2RzHOQE1tIECyuZtD-Bt8A53BjRRvO0W5QOLF7UEe4DDvpbZwzDqwaA/s320/P1000622.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our humble abode.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We meet Botash for breakfast around 8 and try to milk him for more info on the farm's daily activities in Krit's absense. Mostly he just said he helps planting rice every day from 9-12 and that's about it. With that said, he departs to go do just that, leaving us to try and figure out what to do. We try again to approach the ladies about working in the kitchen and were told, 'nothing to learn.' With the whole day in front of us we decide to get geared up to hit the rice paddies as that seems to be where all the action is. I find a safari hat with a neck flap and Mike ends up with a very large and very Mexican looking sombrero (sorry we have no photographic evidence of this). We head down to the paddies and quickly find that rubber boots are useless and get stuck with every step. So there we are, barefoot and calf deep in mud planting rice transplants with a Hungarian and a bunch of Thais. We slosh around for a while, bent at the waist with sun on our backs and the mud squishing between our toes which seems to help regulate the brutal Thai heat.<br />
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If you were ever curious about how rice is planted it goes like this. Rice is started from seed and when the rice plants are about 6-8" in height they are gathered and bundled together into a little bunch about 4 inches in diameter. These bunches are brought to the rice paddy where they are transplanted into the mud. They are seemingly planted at whatever distance and spacing you want. We tried to figure out some sort of standardization but realized that when you've got at least 3 or 4 people working on one square paddy with everyone starting at different places the spacing will inevitably not line up. You grab about 3-4 transplants in your hand and push them down into the mud about 2-3 inches being careful not to snap them. And repeat. It goes rather quickly since there is not need to dig holes or make orderly rows and the mud is super soft and malleable. <br />
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When we've all finished planting we take a walk with Botash to a neighboring community called the Panya Project. They are bustling with activity and were finishing up a permaculture certification course, something Mike and I might have been interested in doing if we had found out about it sooner. At dinner that evening we have a chance to chat with Krit who has returned from Chiang Mai. He gives us some insight on how the growing season works in Thailand and about the current action on the farm. It seems like this time of year it is all rice all the time and although we enjoyed our experience today we didn't feel like doing it again tomorrow...and the next day. So we decide to arrange a motorcycle and sidecar taxi for the morning and make our way to the small hippy enclave of Pai.Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-11990489904274154592011-07-14T11:02:00.000-04:002011-07-14T11:02:28.705-04:00Chiang Mai, Part II - Muay Thai and Bamboo Tattoos<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We wake up super early and hop on our scooter around 7AM, hoping to make the most of our 24hour rental...and avoid the early morning traffic. We fill the tank, pound Nescafe coffee drinks in a can (on vacation we eat/drink things we never do at home!) and ascend the mountain once again. Past Doi Suthep, we climb farther above the city and further into the jungle. Our destination: a small <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hmong_people">Hmong</a> village and the finest, freshest coffee straight from the source. The roads narrow and the hills steepen. It's a little more than our 100cc bike can manage with two passengers and I have to jump off and walk on a few of the steep climbs. But down one-lane roads with two-way traffic and muddy, rutted turns lies the cutest little coffee shop I've ever seen. An open-air platform of raw wood beams and a few tables nestled into a hillside and surrounded by a valley of coffee plants and banana trees. An old woman offers us coffee or tea--we take two cups of coffee and a seat after our long ride. The coffee is tasty, invigorating and relieving after our journey. We even buy some beans to take home with us. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3rQ3PR9zs_90M1YIRvUWijOrXxQ8dM0TfSX9KHjQ8Yp34iNAQ7xeW1iV5UanUKiwkjlPwAFFlLDHukFNTo3fOLd0uRtf09vqYSE0XqzK0rwNTvUOOWr7fx90J5EhVVggWbcCKDIZJZI/s1600/IMG_2653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3rQ3PR9zs_90M1YIRvUWijOrXxQ8dM0TfSX9KHjQ8Yp34iNAQ7xeW1iV5UanUKiwkjlPwAFFlLDHukFNTo3fOLd0uRtf09vqYSE0XqzK0rwNTvUOOWr7fx90J5EhVVggWbcCKDIZJZI/s400/IMG_2653.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from our coffee paradise.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After our coffee the old woman points us up the road to the main part of the village. We bike a few hundred meters further to a sleepy collection of ramshackle homes, a shop or two selling snacks and fresh fruit and the most unusual gasoline-dispensing contraption I've ever seen. Well, since empty whiskey bottles. The town is a weave of hard-packed clay/dirt roads, we pass an old woman sorting through rice grains in a wide basket on her stoop and a young boy feeding a few caged birds. We wander about for a few more minutes but soon begin our journey back to the city. On the way we stop to see the gardens at Phuphing Palace, a winter residence for the royal family when they visit Northern Thailand. The gardens are quite beautiful and varied, but we walk the grounds for only about an hour so we can return our bike on time. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After a tasty lunch at the Blue Diamond (massive portions and a mostly veggie menu) we check out a few tattoo shops, eager to find someplace to get traditional bamboo tattoos. Instead of a tattoo machine, traditional bamboo tattoos are done with 4-5 needles fastened to a bamboo handle. The ink is then pressed into the skin with the needles by hand. It began as a practice undertaken by Buddhist monks who imprinted traditional religious symbols into their skin centuries ago. We've been toying with idea for some time, but we needed to find a good, clean shop and come up with a good idea. Seems like a great way to commemorate our trip!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The second shop we visit, <a href="http://www.dejavutattoo.com/home.php">Deja Vu Tattoo</a> seems deserted at first. Then suddenly a lively woman comes bouncing over from the internet cafe next door. We discuss our idea and size/location for the tattoo. She's very helpful, and on the phone with the tattoo artist to figure out the artwork immediately. She asks if we can wait to see the design and get the work done tomorrow, and since we're enjoying Chiang Mai so far we decide to stay another day. We agree to email her a photo of our idea and set up an appointment for 4PM the following day.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">With a few hours to kill before the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muay_Thai">Muay Thai</a> fights that night, we grab a couple beers on a rooftop bar and a quick dinner at the night bazaar. Then it's off to the fights!</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhURLlI-ONlwZ3i4YPVEQepmiiDRa08VrVZOEJQcY41hQ9-_W4i4Zb6adnNOeqqyP6_mDcyQ7yUd2eOPQiD4Q5vRWjXYiS4t7Ln8ZW0iIc9s_JlJ_aF3MLSA20Z2rKpxfbnllkjlRMMpf0/s1600/P1000483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhURLlI-ONlwZ3i4YPVEQepmiiDRa08VrVZOEJQcY41hQ9-_W4i4Zb6adnNOeqqyP6_mDcyQ7yUd2eOPQiD4Q5vRWjXYiS4t7Ln8ZW0iIc9s_JlJ_aF3MLSA20Z2rKpxfbnllkjlRMMpf0/s400/P1000483.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">What a crazy scene. Let me see if I can summarize: The ring sits in what is more or less a roofed-in courtyard, encircled with a few dozen tables and chairs. Beyond that the whole thing is surrounded by 7-8 different bars. Most interesting is the self-proclaimed Lady Boy Bar. Want to know more about lady boys, or <i>Kathoey</i>? Read <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kathoey">here</a>. Anyway, the lady boy's may have been the most interesting part of the night--between fights they lip-synced and preformed choreographed dance numbers to various 70's hits. Eventually they were topless, with tourists dancing along! It was quite a sight... </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As for the fights, they were also quite entertaining. There were 6 or 7 bouts, starting with young, 12-14 year old boys and working their way up in weight and skill level. Some fights were quick and brutal, while others were slow and prodding battles. Almost all were called by the ref due to one of the fighters being unable to go on. In the finale, an international bout, a Thai fighter is beaten by a lanky, pale English kid in 5 rounds. All in all, quite a night.</span></span><br />
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</div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next day we rise for another round of iced coffees and our first laundry of the trip. We make use of the sidewalk laundromat just across from our guesthouse--literally a few coin-operated washers and dryers on the street--and then grab a quick snack before heading over to check out the artwork for our tattoo. Unfortunately it's not ready yet, but the woman promises if we return at 6PM she will have the artwork and the artist ready to go. A bit concerned, but with no other option, we hang out in a few used bookstores and check out a recommended vegetarian restaurant before returning to the shop. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">To our surprise we return to the shop to find the tattoo artist and a great, very detailed sketch of our idea, which I've obviously been keeping a secret so far. So here's how it turned out: </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It's a little tough to see, but the design is based on the roots of the trees that we had been seeing all around Thailand--unlike most trees back home, their root systems seem to sit much more above the ground. We think they are Indian rubber trees, but we're not entirely sure. Here's the picture the artwork is based on:</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72a_Wi1eZjzrTnhnhhAi4k7dMrRPyUh2Drt7pRwboP9Mmnrp3i7LM9wbYWAPXSaIkIyn8cOtKuSN1mneHIuUQiu9vcxyBCHPr3s3tqNGloe51w4bqOY4gpCGpDyT12cUQJ_BX3iTcfOY/s1600/IMG_0052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72a_Wi1eZjzrTnhnhhAi4k7dMrRPyUh2Drt7pRwboP9Mmnrp3i7LM9wbYWAPXSaIkIyn8cOtKuSN1mneHIuUQiu9vcxyBCHPr3s3tqNGloe51w4bqOY4gpCGpDyT12cUQJ_BX3iTcfOY/s320/IMG_0052.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We decide to get the same design on opposite calves (mine on my right, Sadrah's on her left) to symbolize the roots that we have grown together...<i>awwwww</i>...ok, shut up! The work costs about 6000B each for 2 hours, or about $200 including a pretty decent tip by Thai standards. The detail in the artwork came out great (unfortunately you can't really see it in the picture) so for the time and level of work we're both very happy. Bamboo tattoos don't generally bleed or scab up like machine tattoos since the needles don't go as deep. However they last just as long and are fully healed within 3-4 days. You can even get them wet 3-4 hours after the work is done, which means we can take a full-on shower that night. A nice bonus in this sticky climate. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBxRlEJqQscRCZmek7PfenKrHW-8G14oIWQYIACxck6L47gH4zTNVAjLJdNONP0lB-zgbB0HCspCFH0pV-1MOvFEsdFfTNpQmRjsRVPQu6zCqHWOG3YXYOs_otScwJwePSv5MwLnUpnE/s1600/IMG_2727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBxRlEJqQscRCZmek7PfenKrHW-8G14oIWQYIACxck6L47gH4zTNVAjLJdNONP0lB-zgbB0HCspCFH0pV-1MOvFEsdFfTNpQmRjsRVPQu6zCqHWOG3YXYOs_otScwJwePSv5MwLnUpnE/s320/IMG_2727.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our awesome artist and his partner</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It's pretty late by the time we finish up with the tattoos, so we say our thank yous and goodbyes and head back to our guesthouse. After a quick celebratory beer at the bar downstairs we crash into our bed, for another day of travel lies ahead. Tomorrow we really get off the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana_Pancake_Trail">pancake trai</a><a href="http://l.../">l...</a></span></span>Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-25497351990832668752011-07-14T09:54:00.000-04:002011-07-14T09:54:36.016-04:00Chiang Mai<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Our journey north to Chiang Mai starts typically: we arrive at the bus station @ 9:30AM, hurried along to buy tickets that seem a bit expensive and rushed to a bus that is about to just about to arrive. Turns out it's the wrong bus, and we end up waiting until 11AM. What a perfect time to grab a snack and get some ready done, right? Eventually we board a double-decker with a bit of AC going and 5 hours later we roll into Chiang Mai. The biggest city in Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai is definitely more manageable and less overwhelming than Bangkok. Over the next few days we'll come to find that it's definitely the cooler, more progressive big city in Thailand.</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">From the bus station we share a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songthaew">sawngthaew</a> across the moat that encircles the old city with a few other European travelers from the bus. We arrive in a central location and proceed to the guesthouse where we reserved a room the night before. Unfortunately, it's a bit of a dump with ants all over the floor of the room and windows that wont open, so we politely decline the room and set out on foot to find a more suitable spot. On our 2nd try we find Rama Guesthouse--nothing flashy but for 300B a night it will do for now. The rest of the day includes our first non-Thai food of the trip (burritos and falafel) and a bit of wandering just to get our bearings.</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The next morning we roll out of bed a bit later than normal and stroll down the street for some great iced coffee and a chocolate croissant. Not bad for $3. We intend on taking it slow today, but after about an hour of pouring over maps and guidebooks we come up with a plan for the afternoon instead. We rent a scooter for 200B for 24hrs. (about $6.60) and Sadrah pilot's us up to</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wat_Phrathat_Doi_Suthep">Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep</a>, a Buddhist temple that sits in the mountains overlooking Chiang Mai. It's a tough ride at first with tight, steep curves and various trucks, buses and other scooters flying by. Thais can be wild drivers--crossing over into opposite lanes of traffic on tight turns and passing in your lane--so you need to stay alert. Not to mention that it was Sadrah's first time with a passenger, and my first time on a scooter EVER! There are a few wobbly moments, but eventually we get the hang of it.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjpKPulRfR6QVAnmksh7JkMxsdXIoOXkV4hPPMX9EEBKSr1Z_HsmEYM306KxTkaC9DpRWC_YE62-_jpatQqUB3DvBe7a3ZqqAMURgyMCsNCTVL1XCKURnyhpmqy9cfUPmkqweBPGrvI0/s1600/bikers2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjpKPulRfR6QVAnmksh7JkMxsdXIoOXkV4hPPMX9EEBKSr1Z_HsmEYM306KxTkaC9DpRWC_YE62-_jpatQqUB3DvBe7a3ZqqAMURgyMCsNCTVL1XCKURnyhpmqy9cfUPmkqweBPGrvI0/s320/bikers2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEOhc1QE0xdKnW24XFggLt8EuZ4MVKnwhhauukRjN_2ONzlvr1yjCMz_ItPNgLY2yci_BJvZUr5N__onBUZBrbD5KSvs_P3KdDiOgRP-hhKA43TsPyp9HJcEZajsSM3JYCLCi7IkQdN2g/s1600/bikers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The temple sits partway up the mountain with beautiful views of the city below. We hang out for a while, grab some food and wait out a passing rainstorm. Before descending back into the city we procure some gasoline from a very peculiar source: at the back of the market a guy is selling empty whiskey bottles full of fuel for 50B. Way overpriced (30B at the pump), but when the gauge is on E it's better than nothing. We dump a liter into the tank and hit the road. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Doi Suthep </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Every Sunday evening in Chiang Mai <span class="maintext">there is the Sunday Walking Street, a massive market that starts at Thapae Gate and runs along the length of Ratchadamnoen Road through the heart of the Old City.</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> We spend nearly five hours in the market, wandering and munching on all manner of strange foodstuffs and browsing all types of clothing, trinkets and handicrafts. We manage to buy a few small things and finish the night off with a 1/2 hour foot massage for $2 each. We shuffle off to our bed content with our first full day in lovely Chiang Mai. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgplOYazjy1xjZqso25_3-mN0MFM77RagvWzp0hqa1-zIlD0-2XswmzqLfnS06RNDGPe-zlqwYFmkXw1nNTh7hjC-R0aqEjglWGVbeueqjgAVGNKfxppHzJAczY02L9DrNB7eqWRNqKP3M/s1600/black+bean+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgplOYazjy1xjZqso25_3-mN0MFM77RagvWzp0hqa1-zIlD0-2XswmzqLfnS06RNDGPe-zlqwYFmkXw1nNTh7hjC-R0aqEjglWGVbeueqjgAVGNKfxppHzJAczY02L9DrNB7eqWRNqKP3M/s200/black+bean+2.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black bean ice cream!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunday Walking Street</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-29193640370600371482011-07-09T11:06:00.000-04:002011-07-09T11:06:38.693-04:00The Ancient City of Sukhothai.Early the next morning we headed downstairs and ate breakfast at the restaurant. Our guest house offered a free transfer to the pick-up truck public transport to the old city and we took advantage of the 9am run. The shuttle dropped us off in front of 7/11, which are absolutely everywhere in Thailand and we immediately jumped on the back of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songthaew">sawngthaew</a> which was loaded up with passengers as well as sacks of potatoes and peanuts to be dropped off along the way.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81zovTUD5-gD2kUPE_lyCX6l7WF34Hiqog7MpAg0-at6IHdoJsf0h9yVUI1zgsnMcV5xhyphenhyphenKcw8RUjqcATx33oPfsgzsBoBZc3XXT4gc0mA77p2H1N7_3KohB67wIM_l5EnmYOo8tDZg/s1600/4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81zovTUD5-gD2kUPE_lyCX6l7WF34Hiqog7MpAg0-at6IHdoJsf0h9yVUI1zgsnMcV5xhyphenhyphenKcw8RUjqcATx33oPfsgzsBoBZc3XXT4gc0mA77p2H1N7_3KohB67wIM_l5EnmYOo8tDZg/s320/4.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP42CDU8DEnXO7aqYhgRl2emOps4Ta-bruZsfupuxNFO8dmWIk4srPoH-v0t0rtQpz8bzFYV1EBh0sJhusE0aLjAIliZiPH59FHLSN9abqAlxnblK70SvxluatN7FPrTiu-GPsuAM-ZA/s1600/P1000250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>After hopping off the sawngthaew we headed across the road to rent a couple of bicycles for 30 baht a piece (roughly $1). <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP42CDU8DEnXO7aqYhgRl2emOps4Ta-bruZsfupuxNFO8dmWIk4srPoH-v0t0rtQpz8bzFYV1EBh0sJhusE0aLjAIliZiPH59FHLSN9abqAlxnblK70SvxluatN7FPrTiu-GPsuAM-ZA/s1600/P1000250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP42CDU8DEnXO7aqYhgRl2emOps4Ta-bruZsfupuxNFO8dmWIk4srPoH-v0t0rtQpz8bzFYV1EBh0sJhusE0aLjAIliZiPH59FHLSN9abqAlxnblK70SvxluatN7FPrTiu-GPsuAM-ZA/s320/P1000250.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>We spent the day coasting around the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukhothai_Historical_Park">Sukhothai Historical Park</a> checking out the remains left from an ancient kingdom of the 13th and 14th centuries. The park, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is over 70 square kilometers but we saw only a fraction of it, concentrating the majority of our time in the center of the old city which contained giant Buddhas and many temples all surrounded by a moat.<br />
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We heard later from someone that moats used to surround ancient cities in order to protect the temples from termites. I don't know if this holds any truth but after seeing some of the damage a termite can cause it wouldn't surprise me.<br />
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Somewhere along our exploration we heard some loud thunder and and noticed menacing clouds rolling in. We sought the nearest shelter and managed only to get hit by a few raindrops before it really came pouring down. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERw71U-h1k3wYDt8Xd0M6e77j7pfXNkmwt5cxdm0pbXNjJmQbhq3dDBRwKhriSkquLFrRnAGSb-jjZjIi-CQ1Y2WsSFtiHRtf26B6H6jhP_372Brke02cPU0skXpR6MCDNYtD9zxNOw/s1600/7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERw71U-h1k3wYDt8Xd0M6e77j7pfXNkmwt5cxdm0pbXNjJmQbhq3dDBRwKhriSkquLFrRnAGSb-jjZjIi-CQ1Y2WsSFtiHRtf26B6H6jhP_372Brke02cPU0skXpR6MCDNYtD9zxNOw/s320/7.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike waiting out the storm.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnJ2D843FJsP8fc76pA6LsWXl7K3ITzyvYm5eGEsz94xy1Ng2-s17iR2DO2iqGc5ON1n0ZvolJKZOIpX4QK20Gz1m2rCfHTBr33C0zsxEFT2NpVeHrEw94JutAGooMcNQyuAvryrv6yw/s1600/8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnJ2D843FJsP8fc76pA6LsWXl7K3ITzyvYm5eGEsz94xy1Ng2-s17iR2DO2iqGc5ON1n0ZvolJKZOIpX4QK20Gz1m2rCfHTBr33C0zsxEFT2NpVeHrEw94JutAGooMcNQyuAvryrv6yw/s400/8.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The rain provided a really nice relief from the heat and about a 30 minute delay. We waited under a little roadside hut for the raindrops to slow before heading on to another section of the ruins that contained a huge Buddha with famously photographed long golden fingers.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm always impressed with the symmetry in ancient ruins.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2qS1cx5zC_8BiZayRpyAiXL0Zg2Q7DvNMtPhJNz6MH_rPsbbYggeRpunDQFROwXZTv8QgYaqRk1P5jXokfZ6ujhm2p32z-GIvLBnqjbuToV5Kr9QkLre1LJEBHnCSgsAZUfuDg3sJHQ/s1600/6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2qS1cx5zC_8BiZayRpyAiXL0Zg2Q7DvNMtPhJNz6MH_rPsbbYggeRpunDQFROwXZTv8QgYaqRk1P5jXokfZ6ujhm2p32z-GIvLBnqjbuToV5Kr9QkLre1LJEBHnCSgsAZUfuDg3sJHQ/s320/6.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This contraption makes the ride we took the other night look as safe as a Volvo.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>Wet and worn from the day we hitched a ride back to the 7/11 where the guest house shuttle took us back. We cleaned ourselves up anticipating to use one of the free guest house bicycles to ride to town for some dinner. When we inquired at the front desk, the look on the woman's face said it all. She cautioned us on the state of the roads due to the recent flooding and we opted instead for another mediocre meal at the guest house, some cards, a beer Chang, and an early night to bed before a long travel day to come.Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-50260185575312088402011-07-05T15:35:00.000-04:002011-07-05T15:35:50.549-04:00Travel dazeAfter some exciting and relaxing days in Kanchanaburi we push northward to the historic city of Sukhothai. But not before a very, very long day of travel. The speed, consistency and lack of predictability when it comes to traveling outside of the Western world definitely takes some getting used to. It took me most of my two weeks in Peru to get the hang of it. There may be prices or schedules posted at your guesthouse, but don't expect what you see in the guidebook or on the web to be the reality at the train/bus station. Things do not always run on time and prices can change without notice. You may start to feel like everybody's screwing with you, but just try to go with the flow and be prepared to wait a while or jump at a moment's notice and you'll be fine. So far I think the system has actually worked in our benefit, as there always seems to be a bus leaving to where we're headed just as we arrive to the station. <br />
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Our journey begins early. After a quick breakfast we board and 8AM fan (no AC) bus to Suphanburi. Two hours later we arrive in Suphanburi to the usual ruckus of tuk-tuk drivers and "travel agents" attempting to herd us onto this bus or that. I just remind myself that they're only trying to make a buck, just like everybody else. The normal response seems to be to just ignore them, and be on your way. So we keep our eyes averted and stop for a minute to collect ourselves and our things. After a bit of language barrier confusion, we board the cheaper fan bus (and not the AC mini-bus) to Ayutthaya. We arrive about 2.5 hours later (1 hour waiting in the bus at the station, 1.5 travel time) but not really at any sort of bus station. Eventually we figure out that we're not at the long distance bus station and remedy the situation with a short ride on a miniature version of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songthaew">sawngthaew</a>'s we see all over Thailand. We make the 3PM air-con bus to Sukhothai and settle in.<br />
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Six hours later we arrive in Sukhothai to do the ol' transport dance once again. We board a rickety motorcycle cart contraption--half motorbike in the back and 2-3 seater cart in the front, with steering partially controlled by the feet of our driver--and finally arrive at our accommodation, Sila Resort. This area of the north has received a lot of rain over the past few weeks and the river running through town is extremely high. It nearly touches up to the bottom of the bridge we cross on the way to our guesthouse, and roads are flooded out completely in some places. We spot water trickling through (and nearly over) the sandbags piled high along the banks and cross our fingers for no more rain. Or at least that our room is on the 2nd floor!<br />
<br />
Exhausted from our day of travel we grab a quick dinner at the restaurant downstairs and head for bed. Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-27698766680646293852011-07-03T08:18:00.000-04:002011-07-03T08:18:08.260-04:00Slowing down, kicking back.We were both a bit worse for wear after four hectic days in Bangkok. The combination of heat, jet lag, poor air quality, nasal congestion and poison ivy all added up to a dizzying experience. So, anxious to get out of the city we board an ancient but colorful, funhouse-mirrored bus and rolled slowly toward Kanchanaburi. The bus putters along, spitting black exhaust and making frequent stops, but eventually we arrive. This small town on the River Kwai sits about 2 hours west of Bangkok. It's most well known as the home of the famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bridge_on_the_River_Kwai">Bridge on the River Kwai</a>, but there are a few other worthy sites and a generally more relaxed atmosphere that enticed us. <br />
<br />
Having my Iphone with us has been a real lifesaver so far. I don't have any cell phone service, but we can jump on free wifi whenever we find it, which is most any restaurant, coffee shop or guesthouse in Thailand so far. So, once at the bus station in Kanchanaburi we dodge the nagging tuk-tuk drivers and use the free wifi at a coffeeshop nearby to call our guest house and get them to pick us up for free. We spend the rest of our first day just relaxing and settling in. We track down cheap vegetarian fare on the main drag, we lounge by the pool, we nap in our AC room. We shake the flashing lights of Bangkok.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKZW1J0ccjEbgWIrTOSedTVPeSEucCU-KXmCCzrhmbBCPYW_gLOU3RNoNg7dUy5OyxfOmNKdmsLBxYf-ds7Q-Vsr3IaDFLCpkRIiZA0DH5Q6SvKkAkq1on1ejWBcbe_LFgpsCxVI7a5I/s1600/IMG_2509%255B1%255D" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKZW1J0ccjEbgWIrTOSedTVPeSEucCU-KXmCCzrhmbBCPYW_gLOU3RNoNg7dUy5OyxfOmNKdmsLBxYf-ds7Q-Vsr3IaDFLCpkRIiZA0DH5Q6SvKkAkq1on1ejWBcbe_LFgpsCxVI7a5I/s320/IMG_2509%255B1%255D" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The infamous bridge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The next morning we're ready to go--we rent bikes for 50baht a piece (about $1.50), scarf down some breakfast and head over to one of several WWII cemeteries in town. There's also a great museum next door that tells the story of the Death Railway (which the Bridge over the River Kwai is a part of) and the men who built it. During WWII, the Japanese put hundreds of thousands of POW's to work building a railroad from Burma to Bangkok to help transport precious resources for their war effort. It was treacherous terrain, and thousands of POW's died from exhaustion, malnutrition and disease. It's a compelling story that I'd never heard before. After the museum we biked it down to the infamous bridge--not all that compelling, but worth a look nonetheless.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixeUEX-Ad0E1qPdnQm9JIqHB6kmYSynR8sGQcept2koxLOE-tneDQr7wrIgzyZ64rcDNhM9VRbLQxfUC7NaSuwEr3ql-dVQnpRtPEEHpdUs2bfWjqPJ4S92CF_XtoqWOc03kUJ4hQb3ps/s1600/IMG_2522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixeUEX-Ad0E1qPdnQm9JIqHB6kmYSynR8sGQcept2koxLOE-tneDQr7wrIgzyZ64rcDNhM9VRbLQxfUC7NaSuwEr3ql-dVQnpRtPEEHpdUs2bfWjqPJ4S92CF_XtoqWOc03kUJ4hQb3ps/s320/IMG_2522.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cave Buddha</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The heat is still brutal, so we take a pool/lunch break and then head off toward Wat Tham Khao Pun a few kilometers out of town. The Wat (Buddhist temple) boasts a series of caves with various Buddha statues and images. We get our first real taste of adventure, biking through small villages and trying to navigate our way to the Wat with a poor excuse for a map. We cross paths with a herd of goats and several Brahma cows. Most signs don't have any English, so we take a couple guess turns and arrive eventually--out of breath and drenched in sweat but exhilarated. The caves feel like a bit of a tourist trap, but the journey makes it worth it. Plus, seeing Sadrah yelp and run from bats swooping overhead is worth every minute of pedaling. <br />
<br />
We decide to spend an extra day in Kanchanaburi. 400baht for an air-conditioned room and a pool--why not?! Besides, we'd developed quite a friendly relationship with the little lizards that decorated the walls outside our room after nightfall. The next morning we board a bus to Erawan National Park to check out the 7-tiered Erawan waterfalls. It's a beautiful spot with light jade-toned water surrounded by thick jungle. Each swimming pond is brimming with little fish that swim up and attach to your skin and begin sucking/nibbling the minute you get into the water and stop moving. It takes a little getting used to--actually we never really got used to it. But if you swim out into the deep water and tread water they leave you alone. We explore the first 5 tiers before having to rush back down and catch the bus back to town. <br />
<br />
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And by the way, whenever you see a sign that reads "Beware Fierce Monkeys" you best take it seriously. We had a monkey with baby in tow rip open a plastic bag filled with our picnic lunch supplies and steal off with our 7-11 cupcakes. One of the park workers tried to get them back with a slingshot to no avail. Later we saw another monkey go after a family and their bag of treats. These are serious monkeys. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZvIdcjO4z1cSAY7Ph77HKgd6XzcCLdDdErcclVwQ1YVkRZBNLzQUti2DTEXal5YKNkWNUqCiexYThn73dVtjKOTa0Lrj_8uJHDZ8BtsAZ-fp1PH0rqTHURkssUYzscLz9RYZ9ySqXn8o/s1600/P1000234.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZvIdcjO4z1cSAY7Ph77HKgd6XzcCLdDdErcclVwQ1YVkRZBNLzQUti2DTEXal5YKNkWNUqCiexYThn73dVtjKOTa0Lrj_8uJHDZ8BtsAZ-fp1PH0rqTHURkssUYzscLz9RYZ9ySqXn8o/s400/P1000234.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
We finish our day with our first (of hopefully many) Thai massages at <a href="http://www.suan-nanachaat.com/">Suan Nanachaat</a>, a relaxing spa/cafe about 10 minutes outside of town. We both change into loose fitting clothes and are lead up to a loft space and asked to lay down on floor mats. Two small, but very strong Thai women then proceed to press, bend twist, and pound us into all sorts of wild positions for the next hour or so. Thai massage is very different from what most of us are used to in the states. The owner of the spa refers to it as 'passive Yoga' and the description is very fitting. You're definitely not going to fall asleep during this massage. By the end of it we are both worn out but also quite invigorated. The combination of yoga stretching and intense massage really works to loosen up the body and the mind. It was a bit pricey for our budget (16.50/person for 1.5 hours), but definitely worth the splurge to get away from the sleazy, sidewalk massage parlors in town. We return to Kanchanaburi proper for a late dinner, revived and ready to continue our journey north through Thailand.Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-90042989366533104322011-07-01T08:02:00.000-04:002011-07-01T08:02:32.928-04:00First Stop BangkokGreetings from Thailand. We're survived our first week here and between the 24 hours of air and land travel to get here and the dizzying pace of Bangkok once we arrived, it feels like it's been much longer. Our flight landed in the middle of the night and we quickly discovered that Bangkok is the true city that never sleeps. <br />
We found our way into a taxi (w/ a wild-eyed Israeli/Swede?) from the airport and arrived at the hostel we would stay at over the next few days. A simple, small room with a fan and a double bed with a shared bathroom down the hall. As is Thai custom we removed our footwear before entering the living area which kept things clean and comfortable after a long day of traveling. Bare feet in a foreign, semi-public restroom took a little more adjusting. <br />
<br />
We felt rested after our first night and woke up early enough to have our included breakfast: toast with butter and jam, fresh fruit, and coffee/tea. Ever ambitious we fought through our jet lag and set out to explore the city. A short taxi ride dropped us off at a pier where we picked up a cheap and relatively fast medium sized boat down a canal to the Grand Palace - the former Royal Residence. Bangkok is said to be the Venice of the East, but with its brown, sewage-scented water and overwhelming air pollution I think the comparison falls a little short.<br />
<br />
We found that nothing stops here--the traffic is never ending, the buildings expand further than the eye can see, and while you are here you can't seem to stop either. It's all a bit overwheming. Any brief hesitation to take in our surroundings or catch our breath in the smoldering heat was an open invitation to be approached about a tuk-tuk ride to where ever we were (or weren't) heading for a much inflated price over the cost of a metered taxi. When we arrived at our destination pier outside the Grand Palace we found ourselves among an open air food market selling all kinds of identifyable and unidentifyable goods. It smelled of diesel and fried foods. We bought some fresh watermelon and pineapple and began to assess our situation. <br />
<br />
We were on the opposite side of the street from the Grand Palace with about 4 lanes of never ending traffic between us. Crossing the street is a particular challenge. It flows from a different direction than we're used (look right!) and is filled not only with cars, but innumberable scooters and tuk-tuks. Real pros bravely step into traffic and cross little by little, one lane at a time. Stopping and staring down the onslaught of motorscooters, trucks, buses, and cars and hoping that the timing works out in their favor. This is still very daunting at this point so we chose to wait until someone else was venturing across and just kind of piggy-back along with them. Eventually we reached the Grand Palace but not before ignoring several touts trying to convince us that the destination we were trying to see was currently closed for one reason or another and in the meantime we should take a ride in a tuk-tuk to see some other glorious sights the city has to offer. All this despite the fact that hordes of 'farang' or foreigners, are entering a exiting the Palace right before our eyes. We dodge them all and eventually get inside to explore the intricately designed temples and statues inside the Palace walls.<br />
<br />
Our 4 days in Bangkok left us dizzy. Literally. Breating carbon monoxide all day from the overwhelming amount of vehicles and riding in small boats in canals getting misted with sewer water is not worth all the hype. We did manage to make the best of it though and picked out some relaxing sights within a chaotic city. We very much looked forward to the overstimulation of sound, sight and space letting up as we headed out of the city towards Kanachanburi.<br />
<br />
<br />
What we've learned/done so far:<br />
<br />
- The inability to speak/read the language turns out to be a bit of a hindrance <br />
- Beware of the Crazy Bird Lady of Bangkok<br />
- Ladyboys are everywhere<br />
- Ping Pong shows really do exist<br />
- Thai food so far is not as spicy as I imagined<br />
- Geckos make the walls dance<br />
- We've been attacked by monkeys, nibbled by flesh eating fish, and pounded on by Thai massuers and taken many forms of very sketchy transportation...and it's only week 1.Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-53157968350920066562011-06-22T01:10:00.000-04:002011-06-22T01:10:54.881-04:00The Final Countdown & The Story of StuffMike and I head to the train station in Newark, NJ no later than 9:30am tomorrow morning and begin the arduous task of using public transportation to get from NJ to JFK. Our flight doesn't leave until 1:55pm. But I guess there's no better way to start a backpacking adventure than hoofing it all the way to the airport, full load on our backs.<br />
<br />
After much procrastination and rationalization about doing just about anything besides packing and organizing, I have finally just about finished. I'm bringing so much less than I brought to South America for a couple of reasons. Primarily, I will not being working on farms or traveling from the top to the bottom of a huge continent with many different climates in between. <br />
<br />
I decided to leave my Pentax SLR at home for this journey, still a little gun shy after the theft. The camera for this trip is a compact camera with a nice fast Leica lens and lots of manual control. It's much lighter in weight and smaller in size and won't be a burden to keep with me at all times. As I look at what I've actually packed it seems like an frighteningly small amount of stuff and although that was the plan I can't help but break into a little bit of a fervor over what I've likely forgotten. The good news is that anything I may need can most likely be found when I arrive and probably at a fraction of the cost.<br />
<br />
So, here it is--my packing list for 3 months traveling through Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia & Laos! <br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Paper: </span><br />
<br />
- Journal<br />
- Copies of passport, letter re: my medical syringes, injection instructions.<br />
- Reading Material: BUST magazine<br />
- Two decks of playing cards (double solitaire!!)<br />
- Camera User's Manual<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Electronics</span><br />
<br />
- iPod<br />
- Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5- Charging equipment for the above<br />
- High Speed Memory Card Reader<br />
- Travel Alarm Clock<br />
- International Outlet Adapter<br />
- Headlamp<br />
- Steripen, for water purification and plastic bottle minimization. <br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Cloth</span><br />
<br />
- 1 pair of hiking sandals<br />
- 1 pair of all season, waterproof hiking shoes<br />
- 1 pair convertible quick dry pants<br />
- 2 sports bras<br />
- 2 pairs quick dry underwear (wear one, wash the other)<br />
- 1 bathing suit<br />
- 5 pairs socks<br />
- 1 t-shirt<br />
- 5 tank tops<br />
- 1 long sleeve, light weight shirt/hoody<br />
- 1 skirt<br />
- 1 pair of stretch pants for cool night pajamas in the mountains<br />
- 3 pairs of shorts (one pajama-type, one regular, one hiking type)<br />
- Waterproof/Windproof Jacket<br />
- Pack Towel<br />
- 2 Bandanas<br />
- The Original Dreamie sleep sack, As Seen On TV<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Misc</span><br />
- Day bag with Camelbak hydration system<br />
- 1 pair of sunglasses<br />
- Enough First Aid supplies to stock a small hospital<br />
- Lip Butter (Thanks Laura)<br />
- Toiletries including all natural deodorant and Dr. Bronner's all purpose cleaner.<br />
- Dry bag<br />
- Compression stuff sack <br />
<br />
- Waterproof camera housing<br />
- The Skeeter Defeater mosquito net.<br />
- Inflatable neck pillow for peaceful rests anywhere<br />
<br />
$200 cash<br />
<br />
Just for fun, Mike will try to put up his packing list soon. Compare our packing styles and marvel at the striking differences between them!<br />
<br />
And with that, we're officially on our way. We'll see you in Thailand!!!Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com0Union, NJ, USA40.6976019 -74.26320240000001140.6715524 -74.308189400000018 40.7236514 -74.2182154tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-1689367800464544822011-06-19T01:08:00.000-04:002011-06-19T01:08:06.700-04:00Shooting up!<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>
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Alright. Less digression, more progression. Onward to Thailand! We're knee deep in half-packed bags and pre-trip anxiety. Tomorrow morning we head down to NJ to see my family for a few days before our flight out of JFK on Wednesday. First aid kits, <a href="http://www.longroad.com/products/The-Skeeter-Defeater.html">Skeeter Defeaters</a>, Malarone...oh my!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Glb6Q5u80mPB2BhNdTZY3ZPqrOENmuz6AMDadNElXP4ZrQTru_Tt1edJWdXGgTt0-B0dvkoIobbg2lE_0Z7YZ76QMqbbVzdQ07coRlsqV5HlS8d6bs0T83tUso2Be_3mxxA1AE3y5Xc/s1600/CDC14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Glb6Q5u80mPB2BhNdTZY3ZPqrOENmuz6AMDadNElXP4ZrQTru_Tt1edJWdXGgTt0-B0dvkoIobbg2lE_0Z7YZ76QMqbbVzdQ07coRlsqV5HlS8d6bs0T83tUso2Be_3mxxA1AE3y5Xc/s200/CDC14.jpg" width="198" /></a></div>To get shots or not to get shots, that is (or was) the question. I promised talk of diseases, and I shall deliver. I read up on the CDC recommended immunizations for this region and it's enough to make you think you're walking into a horror movie. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaria">Malaria</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dengue_fever">Dengue Fever</a>, <a href="http://japanese%20encephalitis/">Japanese Encephalitis</a>, Hep A & B, <a href="http://www.cdc.gov/nczved/divisions/dfbmd/diseases/typhoid_fever/">Typhoid</a> and rabies are all more prevalent in certain parts of all the countries we're visiting. They can all be pretty ugly if they strike you, but most aren't particularly fatal unless you're trapped in the jungle, days from any sort of credible health care. We don't really plan on being that far out. Plus, our travel insurance covers emergency transport, and there's really nothing like closing out your jungle adventure with a call of "Get to the choppppa!" all Arnold-style as we fling our sickly bodies onto a helicopter. Actually, I'm kind of looking forward to it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDuZIZG3QTxks6c6YDwR5OVloPLgrEgQkmjDwE_dhP8U-rWVLdJ2DOlGH-xjdQTEdyNtvAPcUDaV29nJvzCJnESe9zzaQBkxEChWTNiDRmOreBbUV1nRDwe1TYb8QTNsrz2-WpC0uWJ4/s1600/ArnoldChopper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuDuZIZG3QTxks6c6YDwR5OVloPLgrEgQkmjDwE_dhP8U-rWVLdJ2DOlGH-xjdQTEdyNtvAPcUDaV29nJvzCJnESe9zzaQBkxEChWTNiDRmOreBbUV1nRDwe1TYb8QTNsrz2-WpC0uWJ4/s320/ArnoldChopper.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> For some diseases, specifically Dengue Fever, there aren't even any shots available, so all we have are best practices. For many others there are vaccinations, or in the case of rabies a set of pre-shots that will make the effects of the disease less severe if you're, you know, accosted by a wild monkey. But you'll still have to get a bunch of other shots if you get bitten. <br />
<br />
I already have the series of Hep B shots from when I was a kid. But as for the others, we both decided to forgo the shots. Sadrah's reasons were more philosophical (she's never had vaccinations of any kind) while mine were more economical. I don't have health insurance, and to get all the recommended shots would cost well over $500. But we both know what it takes to follow safe practices while traveling, and these are really more important than just getting shots, many of which are not even 100% effective. We'll be sterilizing all our drinking water and eating safely cooked foods including only fruits & vegetables with skins that are peeled. We'll be using lots of bug spray (w/ at least 35% Deet) and long pants/sleeves at night especially when we're out in more rural areas where some of these diseases can be more prevalent. <br />
<br />
When it comes to Malaria there are no immunizations, just a handful of anti-malarial drugs to choose from. Some even give you crazy, super-vivid dreams. I kind of wanted those, but they were more expensive. So we both ended up with prescriptions for <a href="http://www.drugs.com/doxycycline.html">Doxycycline </a>(the cheapest choice--only about $25-30 for an ample supply) which is an anti-malarial antibiotic that needs to be taken every day throughout travel and for 30 days afterward to help prevent malaria infection. The potential side-effects don't sound so hot, including a slew of possibles like diarrhea, flu-like symptoms and most notably an increased photo-sensitivity, i.e. your skin will sunburn more easily. It could even cause permanent sensitive skin. Fantastic.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnZpn7b3UEl2mRx9YNPq7X46GgkGm6lPmCEDj24hDoCM5j3TsieXGqypmiz1Mpln_kF6SYxhLp1kMEXhF_iQhfPEUz39ut3txs2_Xr7VXr0uKvMo4rt29Bxn30PgM-wp9RqjjCXSLT0M/s1600/malaria.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnZpn7b3UEl2mRx9YNPq7X46GgkGm6lPmCEDj24hDoCM5j3TsieXGqypmiz1Mpln_kF6SYxhLp1kMEXhF_iQhfPEUz39ut3txs2_Xr7VXr0uKvMo4rt29Bxn30PgM-wp9RqjjCXSLT0M/s320/malaria.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stolen from here: <a href="http://xkcd.com/51/">http://xkcd.com/51/</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table> So after doing a lot of online research Sadrah has decided not take the pills, and I don't really blame her. Taking an antibiotic for 4 months straight when you're not even sick is probably not a good thing for the human body. I think I'm going to take mine as an experiment/safety precaution (at least one of us won't get malaria and can take care of the other) but I'm still on the fence. We also got one prescription of Malarone, which is an anti-malarial drug you can take if you think you're starting to get symptoms. It will hold off the progression of the disease and buy you time to get to a good hospital. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil7I2nJkH4ITcN8xeVmwfVZ3myNRfrjmtSosVt0hNBYQnsyzkg6ro0PmBumwqtAt0dSI5YS-aXjaist76pbBKGnmLkalrRrmCB0rOhJeTidNhRPdLGkzCu1cbtKw5ivzkg2BPtRkgf2XE/s1600/montezumas_revenge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil7I2nJkH4ITcN8xeVmwfVZ3myNRfrjmtSosVt0hNBYQnsyzkg6ro0PmBumwqtAt0dSI5YS-aXjaist76pbBKGnmLkalrRrmCB0rOhJeTidNhRPdLGkzCu1cbtKw5ivzkg2BPtRkgf2XE/s200/montezumas_revenge.jpg" width="140" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pol Pot's revenge?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We'll also be carrying some prescriptions for Zithromax and Cipro (thanks to Sadrah's insurance) in case either one of us gets a particularly awful case of traveler's diarrhea. What a boring, sterile name for "the shits." Let me be sure to blog all about that the first time it happens over a squat toilet! In the meantime we started taking a daily Probiotic supplement to help build up the good bacteria in our guts, which should lessen the chance of getting sick. You have to remember, it's not that there's anything wrong with most of the food or water in other countries like Mexico or Thailand--it's just that our bodies are not used to the bacteria's they have floating around. <br />
<br />
<br />
Ironically, the only real use I've had for the health insurance offered by my former employer is for a bunch of shots I could get just before I quit and take a 3 month trip to Asia. Oh well...I can't say I'm not a little bit nervous after all our research, but in some cases I'm just as nervous about the medicines as I am about the diseases. I know we'll be smart and I think we'll be alright.<br />
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I should get some sleep.Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-43779172638174311292011-06-18T22:46:00.001-04:002011-06-19T00:02:31.519-04:00Looking back...My final night of work @ <a href="http://www.thesherwoodinn.com/">The Sherwood</a> was last Saturday so I've had a bit more free time to tie up loose ends around the house this week. A few days ago I was storing away our cold frames for the season, and it got me thinking about how far we've come in nearly two years. These simple, plywood boxes were our first project here in Upstate NY--completed on Labor Day weekend 2009, just before I left for the last <a href="http://www.facebook.com/givingchase">Giving Chase</a> tour.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrY_1LUH4gYqWgOOIxY3XXsa9n7XkvUA3o4fmptnjppVTW4wQmyHeYkAI43gaME0IORybat7Zg_dxJyGnjZIo_8NgkTBRnhaVpjQrprV5R2ijUtIxCT_vBPhyEZ2iZ36HHGNb3_koeNJQ/s1600/making+cold+frames.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrY_1LUH4gYqWgOOIxY3XXsa9n7XkvUA3o4fmptnjppVTW4wQmyHeYkAI43gaME0IORybat7Zg_dxJyGnjZIo_8NgkTBRnhaVpjQrprV5R2ijUtIxCT_vBPhyEZ2iZ36HHGNb3_koeNJQ/s320/making+cold+frames.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building cold frames</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
When we decided to stay here permanently I'm not sure we really knew what we were doing. But a plan developed fairly quickly, and new projects popped up almost weekly. We built our own sawdust toilet. We grew more of our own food than I ever could have imagined. We built our own top-bar beehive. We designed and built a raised bed hoop house, helping us to grow hot peppers more successfully in our climate. We learned about blanching, freezing and canning to preserve our harvest. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgotEnpLBBsezm1fkuMYGA_7v70HN6NjeXeO8hrtzwEprWLVwtsi4xyBuNkvQLHXwTX8_xzwLW_DihD00vUe4Lk9C7VHr3lleQFp0GV_WHU6wrbi54TSpng-6zos1430_CSryaA5LETJU8/s1600/IMG_0380.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgotEnpLBBsezm1fkuMYGA_7v70HN6NjeXeO8hrtzwEprWLVwtsi4xyBuNkvQLHXwTX8_xzwLW_DihD00vUe4Lk9C7VHr3lleQFp0GV_WHU6wrbi54TSpng-6zos1430_CSryaA5LETJU8/s200/IMG_0380.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our top-bar hive...soon, with bees!<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Maple-sugaring, cooking, baking, kombucha, cheese making, kim-chi...Ok, enough of the bragging list. We failed a whole hell of a lot too, and we probably learned even more from that. For one, don't use drop-cloth plastic from Lowes for a hoop house. It will deteriorate and rip to shreds by the end of the season. Don't leave your kombucha mother sitting in the back of the fridge for a year--she will die. And over-cooking your maple syrup after 15+ hours outside cooking it down over an open flame is particularly disheartening. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZuqVNZYzJp1NE8SfPAXhT7zLia2_Gn-iNFzL4U-1ER3HrsQz1Su9qQ_1eaYhwUiRc12x-k4D5SOu_MeMixzZawJYw144nw5HmfEj3htJfTqPJMm5652MsbmKuDdzJBK_5FqMKOETmsM/s1600/IMG_0451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZuqVNZYzJp1NE8SfPAXhT7zLia2_Gn-iNFzL4U-1ER3HrsQz1Su9qQ_1eaYhwUiRc12x-k4D5SOu_MeMixzZawJYw144nw5HmfEj3htJfTqPJMm5652MsbmKuDdzJBK_5FqMKOETmsM/s320/IMG_0451.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The garden in full swing last summer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>But I've also learned how much you really appreciate the value of things when they don't come easy. That lettuce that you've grown, battling the slugs and the deer and the groundhogs all season. The salsa that you've canned from tomatillos that you grew from a plant that you snapped in half while transplanting and almost killed. Yes, I did that. Well, they all taste that much better. The crops or projects that fail make the ones that succeed that much more valuable. And what's more, they somehow make me feel more whole, more grounded. <br />
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<br />
<br />
So we're taking another big step, moving to a new place where we hardly know a soul, going forward without a safety net or a fall-back plan. It feels...necessary. Much like coming here to experiment with all our ideas did two years ago. Some days it seems so much easier to play it safe, follow dollars or convention and just fall in line with other people's expectations. But there's so much more we want to do, and we continue to do our best to follow our hearts.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDexL5iCu94og9_KMcHToHkhMbwHtXXB6x5u7VMtsrkuweYo_pqle-fUsxHfh0J_5IyXDGGmlIzsukHoNbj1FuPA8rRguONwpkrcTXzk-b0GDQGCcnkne-j1d0oNq1m-Qq07jV1vT24Y4/s1600/asheville-postcard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDexL5iCu94og9_KMcHToHkhMbwHtXXB6x5u7VMtsrkuweYo_pqle-fUsxHfh0J_5IyXDGGmlIzsukHoNbj1FuPA8rRguONwpkrcTXzk-b0GDQGCcnkne-j1d0oNq1m-Qq07jV1vT24Y4/s320/asheville-postcard.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-20080230240155584822011-06-11T11:19:00.000-04:002011-06-11T11:19:32.815-04:00Planning & packingThe new picture above is from Machu Picchu in Peru--our first journey together. Here's to another...and many more! <br />
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So, we are less than two weeks from our departure and it seems like things are finally coming together. We've got some fancy new travel gear, signed up for solid travel insurance, ordered new contacts and payed our car insurance. There's still plenty to do, but we're feeling more excited and less anxious by each passing day. <br />
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Meanwhile we're trying to eat up the remainder of our stockpiled vegetables from last season before we hit the road. It's really encouraging to see how much food we grew in such a small space and how long it has lasted. Gets me all excited for the future! But the freezer is slowly emptying out and I just roasted our very last spaghetti squash that was hanging around in the root cellar. That sucker lasted 9 months...WOW! And there's an heirloom tomato sauce on the stove made from 2 gallons of frozen whole tomatoes put up last summer. There's still plenty more to eat, and our spring garden is putting up more greens than we know what to do with. At least there's a critter out there getting fat on our garden even if we can't eat it all. Either a rabbit or a groundhog has been chowing down on our peas and swiss chard this week in earnest. Can't say I blame him, but I wish he'd quit it. Time for the rotten egg/hot pepper spray!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjth5VTgJsLAcEzvylrUg-vkYrgcEoNGlNfWqKAiWQ-RmG8I_d268oTNq-MIkN87dPe9-ch8JDlLBNNRW664rOr6rZ3J3CMw0rnX8rSNLGFWuEvh2hhp0mqNkvVsFaOcdsFZXvp6ZzZX4/s1600/garlic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjth5VTgJsLAcEzvylrUg-vkYrgcEoNGlNfWqKAiWQ-RmG8I_d268oTNq-MIkN87dPe9-ch8JDlLBNNRW664rOr6rZ3J3CMw0rnX8rSNLGFWuEvh2hhp0mqNkvVsFaOcdsFZXvp6ZzZX4/s320/garlic.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garlic coming up this Spring</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Anyway, more on our trip preparations. Up until now we've been doing most of our research online with websites like <a href="http://www.travelfish.org/">Travelfish</a>, which definitely has a ton of info. But our new <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1741792339/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=1864501588&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1FP1CWRAT5D84ZQ2ZA5V">Lonely Planet "Southeast Asia on a Shoestring"</a> travel guide arrived a couple days ago, so now we can really start to get a feel for where we're headed. I don't know what it is, but there's something about having real pages in your hand to flip through and detailed maps to get you oriented--the whole thing seems a bit more real. <br />
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Our basic route will go something like this: from Bangkok we'll move north through Thailand, then across into Laos. Then south through Laos into Cambodia and across into Vietnam. After we make our way northward through Vietnam to Hanoi I'm hoping we can shoot back to Bangkok on a cheap flight and make our way to the Thai beaches for a bit of sun and super-relaxation time. I'm sure it won't all happen quite like that, but that'll be fun too. Basically, we don't want a day-to-day itinerary. We'll use the guidebook to help give us a little direction, point out cool sites, etc. But we can decide to stay fewer or more days in any location depending on how we like it.<br />
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We've purchased a lot more travel-specific gear this time than we have for any previous trips. Maybe we're growing up--or just smartening up. Either way, SE Asia is notorious for it's tropical (i.e. hot and humid) climate and our travels will coincide with the first half of the rainy season, so we figure it was smart for us to pick up some fancyish, quick-dry gear. Plus, it just make things easier when it comes to keeping your pack light and trips to the laundromat infrequent. We've got travel undies from <a href="http://www.exofficio.com/">Ex-Oficio</a> (very comfortable), plus some new pants, shirts, etc. A compression dry sack, a waterproof camera case, a new headlamp. Nothing super expensive...just enough to keep things safe & comfortable.We'll try to post a final packing list next week.<br />
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<br />
Then there's the issue of water: it's hot and we don't want to get dehydrated, but we'd prefer to avoid buying plastic bottles of water every day even if they are inexpensive. We don't expect recycling bins on every corner, so the waste from consuming 3 liters of water each day is not something we can get behind. So, we did a lot of research (UV sterilization vs. pump filter mostly) and finally decided on the <a href="http://www.steripen.com/">Steripen </a>to sanitize our own water along the way, along with a Nalgen bottle-top filter adapter for any particles in the water and to keep the lip of the bottle clean. As long as your dealing with basically clear water from the tap, all research shows that the Steripen should work perfectly well to kill off any potential harmful bacteria, etc. We've also got a 3-liter Camelbak for carrying water around during the day.<br />
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<br />
We confirmed a reservation at our first hostel in Bangkok, the lovely <a href="http://www.samsensam.com/">Sam Sen Sam Place</a>. At 500 baht (33 baht=$1 US) it seems like a steal, especially for Bangkok. Most of the time we'll just find a place to stay when we arrive in a new town along our journey. But our flight arrives after midnight in a new country where we can hardly speak the language. Seems like a good time to have a specific destination. I can hardly wait for the cab ride from the airport!<br />
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Alright, enough for now. More on mosquitos, malaria and dengue fever next time.Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com0Skaneateles, NY 13152, USA42.947011 -76.4291016999999942.935732 -76.4468747 42.958290000000005 -76.411328699999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-48609241771706562922011-06-04T11:52:00.000-04:002011-06-04T11:52:55.166-04:00We Caught the Wanderfoot...After spending about 2 years in Central New York literally planting roots (and growing some awesome veggies too!) we've decided to leave the area. Though the lakes are unparalleled in their beauty, the local apple and maple sugar traditions are mouth-watering, and the proximity of family is comforting, we're getting itchy feet. The crisp leaves of last fall signaled the slowing of the seasons followed by the long, not-for-the-faint-of-heart winter. Then the first thaw of spring and impending summer spurred the desire to create, grow, and explore.<br />
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We are very proud of our experiences and accomplishments in CNY. To see the transformation of our soil and the presence of earth worms where there had been none before. To see the food we grew and preserved last summer still providing us our meals today. We learned that what we put into it, we got out of it. And we put a lot into this area--we learned to embrace the winter and found deep enjoyment in cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in bitter cold and biting wind. We sat out in the spring, snow still on the ground, bundled up under the stars to finish the 12+ hour boil of our first season's maple syrup. We got blisters, sore muscles, dirty nails, rough hands, sun burned backs, and red necks. And we discovered that we loved it!<br />
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But we've been working only with annuals, planning and producing for the season without permanence and we're ready to move on to perennials. We're not just talking about plants either! It's a tough to decide whether to nurture something with patience or just let it go. Sometimes we see a lot of potential for this area to bear fruit in the future, but it's just not for us right now. <br />
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So, we've decided to move on to greener pastures. But first, we're off on another adventure! On June 22, 2011 we fly to Bangkok, Thailand where we'll spend 3 months traveling in the region. In addition to Thailand we're planning to visit Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. There will be ancient temples, secluded mountain towns and postcard worthy beaches. We're going to eat food that burns our faces off. We're going to be cultural sponges, out of our element, just soaking it all up. And just like we usually do we'll write about it here.<br />
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It may seem crazy to leave the supportive family environment we've been living in, where we've had the ability to test out our green thumbs and save up some money. We've got good jobs where we work short hours and make good money. We're quitting and traveling instead of waiting and saving. When we get back from our trip we're moving to Asheville, NC, a city we've only briefly visited where we know next to no one. We have no job prospects, we have no living arrangements made, we have no Southern accents. But all those things are easily obtainable (except for the accent, that's going to take some work and a whole lotta beer). As far as we can tell, Asheville is a great city and the perfect place for us--progressive, locally focused and vegetarian friendly. A small city swelling with art & culture. A slightly warmer climate with a longer growing season but still the beauty of all four seasons. <br />
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So, call us crazy, but the way we see it, life is short...and the world is wide!<br />
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Post your comments, give us recommendations, suggest wacky things for us to do, and follow all our travels here.<br />
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xoxo, S&MSadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-13544389654633839752010-04-17T10:07:00.000-04:002010-04-17T10:07:08.251-04:00Spring FeverThere may be snow flurries in the air, but we've got spring fever...<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">"It's spring fever. </div><div style="text-align: center;">That is what the name of it is. </div><div style="text-align: center;">And when you've got it, you want - oh, you don't quite know what it is you do want, </div><div style="text-align: center;">but it just fairly makes your heart ache, you want it so!" </div><div style="text-align: center;">-Mark Twain</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">We've got some little sprouts shivering under the low tunnel on the raised bed, we're hoping they'll make it through. There are lots of bright, healthy delicious looking greens standing tall in our cold frames. With the recent rain it is a perfect place for slugs to feast and last night we pulled several big plump ones from our lettuce leaves.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Our field has been tilled and the construction of our many raised beds is underway. My shoulder is aching from all the shoveling and shifting of soil but the work is rewarding. The salvaged wood that we got for free from the lumber yard is all cut for the beehive. I'll finish sanding it today before adding a coat of boiled linseed oil to act as a natural weather protection. We've got to get the hive built and baited with lemongrass oil to attract a swarm. I'm not sure when the best time of year to do that is but I think with all the new flowers and budding trees it wouldn't hurt to get it out sooner, rather than later.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">We bought a few 10' lengths of piping to construct another more stable tunnel for one of the other raised beds we'll be working. We'll use this second tunnel to start seedlings in flat in preparation for some warmer weather. I'm sure the warm weather is just around the corner...right behind the snow.</div>Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-12170476240431508102010-04-14T14:43:00.000-04:002010-04-14T14:43:33.251-04:00Litter, litter everywhere.<div style="text-align: left;">I read an article today in USA today analyzing the 7.4 million pounds of marine debris collected by The Ocean Conservancy in just one day. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Here's the list:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">2,189,252 Cigarettes/cigarette filters<br />
1,126,774 Plastic Bags<br />
943,233 Food wrappers/containers<br />
912,246 Caps, lids<br />
883,737 Plastic bottles</div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">This only provides a snapshot of the type of debris and the quantity of particular items that find their way through storm drains, into waterways, and out to the ocean. The report by the Ocean Conservancy states that 60-80% of marine debris starts out on land and that the United States yields the greatest amount of debris by far than any other country: <b>4,253,650 pounds! </b><br />
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<b> </b>We should be ashamed of ourselves, but instead we're busy throwing our cigarette butts out the window while drinking soda from a plastic bottle, carried from the store to our car in a plastic bag. <br />
Does this disgust anyone else?? Please remember, what we do in our communities has a global impact.</div>Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-77348533301605432742010-04-10T14:14:00.000-04:002010-04-10T14:14:46.736-04:00a 5 gallon bucket is a (wo)man's best friend!This week we finally completed our humanure toilet. You can get an idea of what we built by looking at <a href="http://humanurehandbook.com/humanure_toilet.html">this design</a>. We modified the design a bit, adding a 2nd chamber for sawdust storage and possibly a separate container for diverting urine in the future. Here are a few pictures:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcnbRLVoIj3Bb25DJjMpbFeLxGoM8H0CG2YR7jFVVVJdwpjt_MEzLDl2YimpRpUFIJqGT5QPV54vE5u8rUVIxfvv0c3TqZGj1dK-94MKOOA9soSEPLZQxhFHUuPenjgGITudMSZt1rJew/s1600/IMG_0353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcnbRLVoIj3Bb25DJjMpbFeLxGoM8H0CG2YR7jFVVVJdwpjt_MEzLDl2YimpRpUFIJqGT5QPV54vE5u8rUVIxfvv0c3TqZGj1dK-94MKOOA9soSEPLZQxhFHUuPenjgGITudMSZt1rJew/s320/IMG_0353.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhICpytZAlF4JyQMRYWcAtPSJmIgr8_DPs2nu5djbF-kixp0DDzEMKUOBDgvh8wEidVr2bsBSf5orCT0tdZkkD6YtN3ruzCe4wKo5r6K2x-HTiSWqsyuu_gfp7at3bbdWMmY-qqmsl3dOQ/s1600/IMG_0356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhICpytZAlF4JyQMRYWcAtPSJmIgr8_DPs2nu5djbF-kixp0DDzEMKUOBDgvh8wEidVr2bsBSf5orCT0tdZkkD6YtN3ruzCe4wKo5r6K2x-HTiSWqsyuu_gfp7at3bbdWMmY-qqmsl3dOQ/s320/IMG_0356.JPG" /></a></div><br />
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For all intents and purposes, it looks and feels just like a normal toilet. We've been using it for a few days now and so far I have no complaints. Instead of flushing gallons of water down the drain every day, we just use a scoop of non-kiln dried sawdust from un-pressure treated trees (collected from a local sawmill for $2.00/trash can) as an organic cover material to control any odor. Then, when the bucket is mostly full, we dump the entire contents onto the compost pile. <br />
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In preparation for the first full bucket, we dug out the base of the first bin in our 3-bin compost site and put down about of foot or so of straw and leaf mulch (collected last fall). There, the worms and bacteria and other organisms do their work--over time turning our humanure into viable compost. Of course there's a little more too it than that, and you want to be careful to follow all the steps carefully when it comes to creating and properly aging your compost. But those are the basics. If you're interested in learning more, read <b><i>The Humanure Handbook</i></b> by Joseph Jenkins. You can down the entire book for free in PDF form here: http://www.jenkinspublishing.com/<br />
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While at the sawmill we were also able to sort through a pile of scrap wood to scavenge for bee hive building materials. Hopefully we can piece together our top-bar hive from these scraps and end cuts of boards that we diverted from the landfill and got absolutely for free. If you need something, always go straight to the source. When you cut out the middle-man (in this case, Home Depot or Lowes), you never know what you could get for next to nothing--or nothing at all! <br />
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In the garden we took a few risks. Last weekend, when the weather was warm we decided to plant a few cool weather crops in a permanent raised bed in the front of the house. Sadrah's parents established these beds several years ago, so the soil is great and was already loose, fertile and ready for planting. We added a bag of compost left over from last year to the soil and mostly planted seeds leftover from the fall planting in the cold frames. We planted Rhubarb Chard, Mustard Greens, Winter Radish, Endive Escarole, Buttercos Romaine, Bloomsdale Spinach, Napoli Carrots, and Purple Top Turnips. We were probably a little over anxious here, since last night the temperatures dropped down around the freezing mark and a few snow flakes drifted through the air. The weather can be very unpredictable in our climate this time of year, but we gave it a shot hoping to get a jump on the season. We covered the bed with a small, plastic-vented hoop house to give it a little more protection, and then added a layer of reemay (row cover) yesterday. This is how we learn, and I'm glad to report that so far the turnips have sprouted. Hopefully we'll see other little sprouts coming up soon.<br />
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Everything that survived the winter in the cold frames is doing well. We've been picking a bit of mache and some other greens 1-2 times a week for wonderful salads. Today we cultivated the top layer of soil where we could and thinned our 2 rows of kale. Thinning is a tough task--it's like killing off one of your children so the others will grow big and strong. But it must be done or they'll all just smother each other and nothing will grow. Meanwhile, our garlic planting from last fall is showing amazing growth since we pulled back the straw mulch about 2 weeks ago. We also covered that bed with some reemay just too give it a little protection against the cold and wind for the next few nights. You can see the garlic plants below. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCw6_9QKRGWIQOAohyoZl73dtn9UqSoOFnF29AnPaO6PeOfP1ug2hDzUsxNm_SuuWMtaJRVAkHVrLmw9r2TCVUMW28-Cvp_vNZBovHooPdfNAgj2BVQT3ZT6k4GW0sJL0HTmp4xksxUE/s1600/IMGP1602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCw6_9QKRGWIQOAohyoZl73dtn9UqSoOFnF29AnPaO6PeOfP1ug2hDzUsxNm_SuuWMtaJRVAkHVrLmw9r2TCVUMW28-Cvp_vNZBovHooPdfNAgj2BVQT3ZT6k4GW0sJL0HTmp4xksxUE/s320/IMGP1602.JPG" /></a><br />
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We've decided to have the main garden tilled again, so hopefully our friend down the road will be up with his little Kubota tractor in the next few days, weather permitting. This will help dry out and loosen the soil so we can start building our raised beds and finally get to planting. Our onion sets and potato tubers have finally arrived, so we're getting very excited to start getting things into the ground!<br />
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On our way back from the sawmill this week we happened upon a great little place called <a href="http://www.localharvest.org/farms/M10575">Harvest Home Organics</a> in the Owasco Valley. Rose and her husband Doug have a beautiful 8-acre organic farm out there that we hope to visit again and learn more from all their years of experience. We only had a few minutes to chat before rushing off to work, but I already have more questions about wind energy (they have a small windmill in their backyard) and planting schedules. If you live in our area, definitely check them out at the Skaneateles Farmers Market this summer.Mike W.http://www.blogger.com/profile/10730628746435757620noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-3582869052850396172010-03-29T13:26:00.000-04:002010-03-29T13:26:40.049-04:00Spring is here, so now what?We've been eagerly awaiting the passing of winter for the past 5 or so months and it seems that the last bit of snow has finally melted from our field. So now what? I feel like I got caught up working too much and haven't made adequate plans for the impending spring which is now upon us. <br />
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There's so much to do and oftentimes I feel like I don't even know where to start. For the most part I feel like the point we are now at can not be taught by reading another gardening book. Now's the time to dig in, literally, and it scares the crap out of me. It's our first full growing season independently and although my motto is more or less, 'put it in the ground and it will grow', what if it doesn't?<br />
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The snow has barely been off of the field two weeks and the deer have wasted no time helping themselves to the winter rye we planted in the fall. It hasn't had the opportunity to do much growing so now we're left to wonder whether to till it under mechanically with the aid of our neighbors Kubota tractor or if we'll be able to turn it over by hand and work it in while making the garden beds.<br />
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This brings us to our next concern. Though the ground may be workable enough to plant some of our earliest crops, our garden is not yet prepared. As the space was only cleared of brush in the fall we have no established beds made. Our plan is to make an informal 'raised' bed garden. We'll start by settling on the positioning and size of the beds then use sticks as stakes to rope off the area where the beds will be. We're planning to turn the loose soil from the 'paths' into the beds, essentially lowering the pathway and raising the beds. We hope this will work. I'd say we could get to work on this immediately once we solve the till/no-till problem, but it's awfully wet out. Can this type of work be done before the soil dries up and becomes more workable? Will any damage be caused to the soil structure if we do decide to brave the mud and work the field?<br />
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Then there are the deer. Pesky and persistant they will be competing with us for the food in our garden. Part of me says that the deer will find a way to eat some of the crops no matter what kind of deterrant you install and it's just a part of growing your own vegetables. Pots and pans clanging from tree branches glinting in the sun probably stand no chance when pitted against deer which aren't afraid of much of anything anymore. So how do we combat this? Of course we'll trying pots and pans and shiny objects, dryer sheets and any other wacky method we read about, but what else should we/can we do? Row cover certainly will help while also providing added protection until the weather is stable. But what about fencing? How high would it need to be and would it actually be worth the potential investment/effort?<br />
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Most importantly is the planting. What to plant, when to plant, where to plant. What is the sun's pattern over the field and what does that mean in terms of where to plant the crops that like partial sun vs. full sun. Which plants grow best when interplanted along with others? What types of trellising to we need? How do we manage succession planting, etc?<br />
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It's all very exciting and very overwhelming and this only scratches the surface of the running farm to-do list that tear through my brain like a frieght-train. I quit one of my two jobs today and in doing so took the first step towards simplifying my responsibilities and focusing on accomplishing the aspects of my life that I really want. With less demand on my time from 'work' I can put more effort into my real work which right now is figuring out how to navigate the spring-time challenges of the first year farmer.Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-51575829536813699132010-03-06T10:27:00.000-05:002010-03-06T10:27:39.913-05:00Cold Frame Mold Factory<span style="font-size: large;">W</span>e continue to have more above-freezing days and more sunlight has been been shining on the area where our cold frames are located. The only problem is that the cold frames were nowhere to be seen. Our most recent, and only storm to speak of this season, dropped close to 2 feet of snow and our cold frames were buried somewhere beneath it.<br />
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There was so much snow up on the hill that I had trouble even locating the first cold frame. When I finally did get it uncovered I noticed that the top pane of glass had a big impact wound that spread out into the opposite corners. I figure I must have damaged it while digging it out. Mike soon joined me in the digging and it wasn't long before 5 of the 6 frames were uncovered without any further damage. But where was the 6th frame?<br />
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We dug and dug where we thought the frame should be and then we dug some more. We struck dirt but no frame and were both quite confused. Neither of us could remember with certainty where the 6th frame was. I sent Mike inside to look back at our 'map' from the fall. Amazed at how easily we managed to forget something as simple as the placement of our cold frames reminded us of the importance of keeping accurate records... much to my dismay.<br />
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Once the bulk of the snow was removed it didn't take long for the sun to melt the remaining powder that covered the tops of the frames. Most of the vegetables inside looked decent with the mache continuing to be the real winter star, just as <a href="http://www.fourseasonfarm.com/">Eliot Coleman</a> had promised. <br />
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Most of the greens continue to do well and some even appear harvestable despite the consistent cold and snow cover, but others are being conquered by mold. The mold is mostly on the dirt itself but there are several areas where patches of mold look like it is taking over some otherwise healthy leaves.<br />
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We're not sure why this is happening or what to do about it. Is it due to a lack of sunlight or daylight in general - too much time buried under the remnants of the last storm? Is it a result of excess moisture in the frames coupled with a warmish environment thus causing hospitable breeding grounds for mold? When the weather was warmer we did notice a lot of condensation build-up on the insides of the frames. Maybe it's a matter of airflow and circulation inside the frames. We're not sure. For the time being while we're getting some nice sunny days we're experimenting with venting the frames, not so much for temperature regulation, but for air-flow. If this doesn't seem to impact the mold at all maybe we'll just try removing it to see if it comes back.<br />
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In other news, today we finally finished cutting the pieces we need to construct our saw-dust toilet for humanure compost. Check out the simple and affordable design we're building <a href="http://weblife.org/humanure/chapter8_2.html">here.</a> There's an alternative to dumping 5 gallons of otherwise drinkable water along with incredibly nutrient rich material down the drain every time you flush. Read the <a href="http://humanurehandbook.com/">book</a> that started it all (for FREE).Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-1425208755866679392010-02-23T14:44:00.000-05:002010-02-23T14:44:11.721-05:00Resilient Greens<span style="font-size: x-large;">S</span>o I've got a bit of bloggers block. There are lots of things I'd like to write about: the challenge to select seeds for our first season of planting, new gardening/green organizations we've found in the Syracuse area, and a review of different natural products we've tried and have now regularly incorporated into our lives, among other topics. It seems that I have put blogging on the back burner as I enter into the 3rd week stretch without a day off between my two jobs. Those topics will make it here, eventually, once the blog block has passed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0c56Zh5WGzpRskaOD6qr5iAqgqJ5V7QBCsPTQ8VGkf4cd1iYekDCkuRqq6iH03C7C6SpFKZj4RAxk27R8WGKQpW8dcoURvjVH5NWqeh2QebKruDOEs8wdAC4_UJ3CYYrdM9tnWRALmw/s1600-h/IMGP1318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0c56Zh5WGzpRskaOD6qr5iAqgqJ5V7QBCsPTQ8VGkf4cd1iYekDCkuRqq6iH03C7C6SpFKZj4RAxk27R8WGKQpW8dcoURvjVH5NWqeh2QebKruDOEs8wdAC4_UJ3CYYrdM9tnWRALmw/s320/IMGP1318.jpg" /></a></div>In the meantime, here are a few photos to keep things current. We haven't been hit with any of the mega-storms that have buried the east coast with snow. But in CNY the snow is a constant and an inch or two every day quickly adds up. On a rare day in January when the sun decided to shine I decided it would be a good opportunity to dig out the cold frames and see if anything was surviving underneath. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63DHvVmyaoKZvAoehyhbFJTV-ELjR_xhDIY-IyW-KaAbb7m8S462p6HPO440sfHMNc31ugEJ1NHcwkEAVdZ-pbPFfiMddzyrbcoo5wx6Sm3UXXA7M9r81RsLi4F0K76Xl9nkxYPHy6A/s1600-h/IMGP1325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63DHvVmyaoKZvAoehyhbFJTV-ELjR_xhDIY-IyW-KaAbb7m8S462p6HPO440sfHMNc31ugEJ1NHcwkEAVdZ-pbPFfiMddzyrbcoo5wx6Sm3UXXA7M9r81RsLi4F0K76Xl9nkxYPHy6A/s200/IMGP1325.JPG" width="200" /></a>Under the heavy blanket of snow that covered our cold frames we happily found some resilient greens. I'm hesitant to say that they were thriving, but they were certainly existing. Even if they are a little too icy to harvest, the hope is that they will remain alive, though dormant, for the rest of the winter and bounce back as the weather starts to warm in the spring. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlIXw3BQSivykNl4lrIrXXKvOzJENvtaOS4u__hlOoLk45S4lfA7L3TGa-OWO-NzuaCMzfulTf3em3n-QmGXWphVtdTAfpbXUtF6ma-NQNE97-5Bo_v45ROJXUBIY0Lesz5dk3RrI_Q/s1600-h/IMGP1320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlIXw3BQSivykNl4lrIrXXKvOzJENvtaOS4u__hlOoLk45S4lfA7L3TGa-OWO-NzuaCMzfulTf3em3n-QmGXWphVtdTAfpbXUtF6ma-NQNE97-5Bo_v45ROJXUBIY0Lesz5dk3RrI_Q/s640/IMGP1320.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">There is a bit of frost evident around the edges but they still look very green!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx_AxYjkrXDbWVSqkI6MRCcaf20zGsdCEW-ZAs8s2O5crUQXNRGoSMTEdLq-G-7vJJ1RCqkuiZ2zj20JdIAZfpZrCvck1Pby7AKcVAN3z-jGf6VvgnFjYSRTIJS4d88eHQl-sME3_ZaA/s1600-h/IMG_2219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx_AxYjkrXDbWVSqkI6MRCcaf20zGsdCEW-ZAs8s2O5crUQXNRGoSMTEdLq-G-7vJJ1RCqkuiZ2zj20JdIAZfpZrCvck1Pby7AKcVAN3z-jGf6VvgnFjYSRTIJS4d88eHQl-sME3_ZaA/s200/IMG_2219.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
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Now it's late February and the sun returned for a fleeting moment. We went to check out the frames again and though they are still surrounded by two feet of snow, through the windows we can see signs of life.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHh2q3zx_SwRSCLA7qHp6of7yybzzkp_ELL9f-Tqo8nCoDzhcfWjNe0wqESUk9_HCKdeyxgRpgmAowH8N-cLYATiRCj3d-rz6INmSvzch4K3sHGKkHPEBqzgkSI3hF5TZHJc0ySLRLw/s1600-h/IMG_2221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHh2q3zx_SwRSCLA7qHp6of7yybzzkp_ELL9f-Tqo8nCoDzhcfWjNe0wqESUk9_HCKdeyxgRpgmAowH8N-cLYATiRCj3d-rz6INmSvzch4K3sHGKkHPEBqzgkSI3hF5TZHJc0ySLRLw/s400/IMG_2221.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Mostly everything still looks as good as it did in January and some things, like the mache actually appear to have grown some. I think it's pretty awesome that we are able to maintain our little winter garden even here, in the winter tundra of Skaneateles, NY!Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64909069427449678.post-81238591186601039352010-01-28T00:08:00.001-05:002010-01-28T00:10:57.398-05:00The Barnheart DiagnosisWe've recently learned that we've become infected with a disease. It started as a mild case, early on-set you might call it, however our symptoms have become progressively worse and no longer something we can ignore. I also fear that it may be highly contagious. <br />
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Though we cannot trace the exact source of our infection I do believe it struck me first and after months of direct contact I passed it along to Mike. I think it's something I picked up in South America, although I have most likely been a carrier of the disease all my life. Maybe I should have been vaccinated, but I do not believe that even toxic vaccinations could have prevented this infection.<br />
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It's called <a href="http://www.motherearthnews.com/The-Happy-Homesteader/Yearning-To-Farm.aspx">Barnheart</a>. I know, it sounds serious. And it is. It is a sharp depression and feeling of longing, coupled by irrational thoughts and the desire to tread softly on the soil, rather than pound the pavement. Though it is just starting to receive notice from the medical community I urge you to <a href="http://www.motherearthnews.com/The-Happy-Homesteader/Yearning-To-Farm.aspx">read more</a> about our illness, diagnoses, and treatment. Sadly, no research has been conducted on the cause or prevention of Barnheart.Sadrah Shenaniganshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03223323940100446035noreply@blogger.com1