Avenue of the Volcanos

I took a taxi to the bus station this morning. When I arrived I started asking for buses to Baños and before I knew it I was sprinting with all my gear after a man who was running after a bus that had already started to leave. He got the bus to stop and load me on. There are buses for Baños leaving every 10-15 minutes on several different companies, so running after a bus is unnecessary, but they really want the business.

I began traveling south toward the Avenida de Volcans. It´s impossible not to notice the difference in landscape since leaving Colombia. Gone is the heat and rolling hills filled with grazing cattle, spotted with palm trees. Instead I see towering volcanos and mountains on all sides, coniferous forests, and cold nights. The local people have also seemed to transition from raising cows to growing vegetables. Sheep, llamas, and shaggy cows climb the mountain sides and indígena women carry babies slung over their shoulders, wrapped in shawls and traditional dress, while the short Indian men trot down the streets in their felt hats and wool ponchos.

I am now at a hostel in Baños, a town set in a valley and surrounded on all sides by volcanos and waterfalls. I am much more at ease in smaller towns, and with the exception of Mexico City, I never enjoy the urban areas in Latin America. This is a really pretty and peaceful place to spend a few days, even if the streets are filled with idiot gringos driving souped up go carts.

I spent the afternoon comfortably strolling about the small town and got a feel for the place. There are a couple of nice parks and a pretty plaza facing the basilica. There´s a central market with local handicrafts and food stalls and plenty of street vendors interspersed amound the multitude of storefronts offering tours to volcanos, waterfalls, jungles, white water rafting, bungie jumping, and more.

Baños, meaning ´bath´ in Spanish is known for its thermal springs, mineral baths, and spas. Researchers have known for years about the healing qualities of water after studying animals who seek out warm water and mineral baths when they are sick or injured. One of these mineral baths was located at the foot of a waterfall not far from my hostel. I saw it on my exploration earlier in the day at after learning that it was open until 10pm I decided to take an after dark dip.

For only $2 I went and relaxed for about an hour in the hot springs. The water is murky from the high mineral content, but it is nice and hot, and very calming. Next to the larger bath there was a smaller one, about the size of a standard hot tub, except this one was filled with icy cold water from the falls. I spent my time transitioning between the two pools, as was the custom. Jumping between the hot and old pools was exhilerating and the setting, with the sound of the waterfall next to you and the rain drops falling upon you, was outstanding.